Description of the Traverse of "Nauka" Peak (36 kg)

Cat. difficulty: 3A

"Nauka" Peak (3800 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Sangalyt River tributaries.

From the base camp, located on the medial moraine of the Avicenna Glacier, the group ascends to the glacier plateau and approaches the "Pyati" Pass. The "Pyati" Pass is situated in the ridge between the peaks:

• "Kruglaya"
• "Kharkov"

The ascent to the pass follows a steep snowy slope, 70–80 m long.

By the end of summer, the slope may be intersected by a bergschrund. The descent from the pass goes down a gentle, fine scree slope, followed by an exit onto the northern glacier descending from the "Piramid" peaks. Crossing the glacier, the group arrives under the col between "Nauka" Peak and its southern ridge. On the col, a gendarme resembling a sharp finger is clearly visible. The ascent to the col is done on crampons up a snow-ice slope with a 45° incline. The exit onto the col is rocky, to the left of the gendarme. The further ascent to the summit from the col follows difficult rock climbing.

The group traverses the following sections:

1. The first section follows an inclined crevice, then moves up to the right (25–30 m) to a convenient ledge.
2. The second section is traversed along a horizontal crevice (10–15 m) where a rock is jammed.
3. The third section goes straight up (30–35 m), followed by an exit onto the gendarme's shoulder.

All three sections require thorough piton protection. The further ascent to the summit is straightforward, and the group proceeds simultaneously. The descent from the summit follows the northern ridge down to the col, over easy to moderately difficult rocks. From the col, the descent goes down a snowy slope with a 25–35° incline to the northern glacier of the "Piramid" peaks. The further descent follows the ascent route.

Estimated time calculation for a group of 4:

1. "Pyati" Pass to the col on the southern ridge of "Nauka" — 2–2.5 hours.
2. Base camp to "Pyati" Pass — 1–1.5 hours.
3. Col to summit — 2.5–3 hours.
4. Summit to base camp — 2.5–3 hours.

Necessary equipment for a group of 4:

1. Rock pitons — 4–5 pieces.
2. Ice screws — 1–2 pieces.
3. Crampons — 4 pairs.
4. Hammers — 2 pieces.

View of "Nauka" Peak from "Pioner" Peak (from report #8).