19. Vostochnaia Siam from the east, route 2A cat. dif., fig. 6

From the base camp, cross Siam and start ascending to the glacier cirque below the peaks of Vostochnaia Siam and Yuzhnaia Siam. The ascent follows a stream that flows into Siam. After 1.5–2 hours, reach the glacier moraine. Then, proceed onto the glacier and ascend to the col between the peaks of Sugur and Vostochnaia Siam. The col is covered with compacted talus. From the col, ascend via snow, which becomes steeper (up to 50°) in the upper section. Stay on the left side of the snowfield and reach the base of a gendarme on the ridge. Traverse the gendarme via a ledge, using difficult rock climbing on the right, until reaching a couloir. Ascend the couloir almost to the top of the gendarme. Then, use moderately difficult rock climbing to reach the ridge. Two long, loose couloirs lead to the pre-summit ridge. Take the right one. From the ridge, use a good ledge on the right to approach the base of the right couloir. The couloir is rockfall-prone! Traverse the couloir on the left, near the rocks, occasionally stepping onto moderately difficult rock formations. The couloir makes a sharp turn to the right, then to the left, and leads to the pre-summit ridge. Ascend the ridge using rock climbing to reach the first summit. The summit is a massive boulder leaning towards Siam. Then, continue along the ridge, crossing a col, to reach the next peak — the Main summit, which is almost the same height. Descend via the ascent route. The climb takes 9 hours.

93

Ascent to the summit of YUZHNAYA SIAM via the Northwest Wall, category 2B difficulty

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River, or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida. In the first case, it takes two hours to reach the Pereval Chetyrekh. From the pass, descend to the left onto the scree of the western slopes of the ridge and, bypassing the summit of Malyutki Siama, approach the summit of Yuzhnaya Siama. The northwest slopes of the summit are covered with snow and ice, and there is a characteristic rocky outcrop in the pre-summit area, which is accessed via a narrow couloir. The couloir is snow-ice with a slope of 30–40°. Follow the firn slope to the base of the couloir and move up it. At the end of summer, the couloir is icy, so crampons are necessary! Continue moving up the couloir towards the rocky outcrop. The couloir ends with an ice wall 80–90 m long and 45–60° steep, and the rocky outcrop. Climb the rocks of the outcrop on the right side, and then the ice wall to reach the pre-summit snow ridge. To overcome the last 20 m of the ice wall (up to 70°), steps need to be cut. Belaying is with pitons! The pre-summit snow ridge, which is not too steep, leads to the summit rocky ridge. The rocks are of medium difficulty. To the summit, 1–1.5 rope lengths. The descent from the summit is to the southwest via a narrow couloir with a slope of 30–35°. After 100 m, traverse the couloir to the right. Then, across easy rocks with scree, cross three low, destroyed counter-forces and descend onto the scree (snow in early summer) and, bypassing the western slopes of Yuzhnaya Siama and then Malyutki Siama, reach Pereval Chetyrekh, and from there descend to the base camp.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Group size – 6 people
2. Initial bivouac – base camp on Siama or moraine of the Eastern glacier of Belaya Piramida.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - South Siam /4337 m/ via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 3A route 5. Route characteristics - the route is combined, height difference - 400 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 70° 6. Pitons driven: rock - 14 pcs., chocks - 8 pcs. 7. Number of climbing hours - 10 8. Number of nights - no nights 9. Team of a/l "Varzob"

95. Ascent Report

I. Ascent Class — Rock 2. Ascent Area — Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky Ridge, Tajik Igizakov area 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route, route characteristics — Sioykh, 4100 m, via the western ridge, rock. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 1B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness — 42° section lengths: R1 — 550 m, R2 — 150 m, R3 — m, R4 — m, R5 — m, R6 — m. 6. Pitons driven: rock 3/0

REPORT

On the ascent of peak Siyoh (4100 m) Pamir-Alay, Hissar Range, Osman-Tala mountains 27.06.1978–28.06.1978 Team members:

1. Belousov S.V. — 1st sports category, team leader
2. Bezrukov L.D. — participant
3. Bratanov A.A. — participant
4. Olefir V.V. — participant
5. Skalaukhov A.P. — participant

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class - Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region - Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Osman-Tala mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route - SIYEKH (BLACK), 4100 m, via the northwest buttress of the north wall 4. Proposed difficulty category - 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1300 m, average steepness 65° Length of sections - R1 - 380 m, R2 - 710 m, R3 - 530 m, R4 - 500 m, R5 - 60 m, R6 - 0 m 6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating A.T.O. rock 7. Number of climbing hours - 18.5 hours

Ascent to the summit Studencheskaya

from N.-E. with cat. difficulty From the overnight stays under the Studencheskaya peak, cross to the right bank of the Siama River and ascend to the moraine located to the N.-E. of the Studencheskaya peak. Then, via a couloir and easy rocks, ascend to the snowy plateau located in the N.-N.-E. part of the Studencheskaya peak massif. Traverse the plateau to the left, approach the "window" in the northern ridge of the peak, and through it, exit under the N.-E. rocky slopes of the peak. The following options are possible:

• Ascend via the N.-E. scree slopes of the peak from the Siama River.
• Traverse the scree slopes of the eastern cirque via the scree near the rocks, pass through two couloirs, and approach the fourth one. The landmark is that the peak is visible from it. Ascend via the snow, and then via the rocks. In the upper part of the couloir, there is steep snow; ascend with protection up to the wall at the end of the couloir. The wall above the couloir has a pronounced crevice with chimneys, which is used for further ascent. The first rocky outcrop of the wall, resembling "ram's foreheads," is passed with piton protection (30 m), then:
• leftwards, bypassing the rocky ridge on the left

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category

• technical

2. Ascent area

• Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.

3. Peak, its height, ascent route

• p. Studencheskaya 3792 m, via W wall.

4. Estimated category of difficulty

• 5A

5. Route characteristics

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — Winter ascents.
2. Ascent region — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuz spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Surkh-Nu (2980 m) via the Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 1B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1380 m, average slope 30°–35°, length of sections: R1 — ... m, R2 — 2500 m, R3 — ... m, R4 — ... m, R5 — ... m, R6 — ... m.
6. Pitons hammered in:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents
2. Ascent area: Gissarsky ridge, Surkh-Kukh spur
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via South-West ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 30–35°
6. Length of sections: I — 960 m, II — 80 m, III — m, IV — m, V — m, VI — m.
7. Pitons driven: rock — 0