Peak October from SE

2A — difficulty cat.

Peak October is located in the area of Tajikskiye Igizaki. The height of the summit is 4100 m. It is the most beautiful summit in the area, having a pyramid shape and dropping off with sheer walls towards the Maihura River. Approaches and overnight stops are similar to those for the Shirokaya and Nevezuchaya peaks.

The ascent to the summit begins from a col on its SE ridge at a height of 3500 m. The ascent to the col, clearly visible from below, goes along a steep scree, местами cemented, and grassy slopes.

From the col, we approach the rocks and, bypassing them on the right along a ledge (about 30 m) above the sheer walls towards Maihura, we come to the beginning of a small couloir dropping off with walls. Crossing the couloir from left to right upwards, we come to its upper part, representing a chimney with a plug at the top. Having ascended the chimney to the plug (3–4 m), we go to the right onto the ridge and along it — to the summit.

The rocks are easy, passed partly simultaneously, partly with occasional belays on выступы, friable.

Descent from the summit: continuing the traverse along the western ridge (about 10–15 m), we descend to a narrow friable ledge and along it about 30–40 m to the beginning of a cleft turning into a couloir, along which we descend to the start of the ascent.

Further — descent to the valley along any couloir.

The first ascent was made on November 7, 1962. Time taken from overnight stop to overnight stop at the mouth of r. T. Igizak is 12 hours.

Equipment is standard for ascents on routes of this category.

Compiled by (Tkachev)

Peak October from Shirokaya.