64. Nauka from the North (or South), Category 2B Climbing Route, Fig. 34

This description is for traversing the Nauka peak from south to north.

Fig. 34. From the bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Sangalt Glacier, cross the firn plateau of the cirque. Ascend from the glacier to the southern saddle of the peak. The ascent to the saddle goes up a snowy slope, with a bergschrund at its lower part. On the saddle, there is a sharp gendarme; pass it on the left. From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks. Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m). From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform. From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder. Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.

Next:

• From the saddle, go up a slanting crack to the left until it forks.
• Ascend the right vertical crack to a balcony (25 m).
• From there, go left along a horizontal crack with a jammed rock to a platform.
• From the platform, ascend the wall (30 m) to reach the shoulder.
• Then, follow the simple ridge rocks to the summit.

The descent from the summit is via the northern ridge. From the summit, go slightly left, then follow easy and moderately difficult rocks to a snowy saddle, from which you descend left down a snowy slope to the glacier.

The group should have:

• 2–3 ice screws.

The ascent takes 5–6 hours.