REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder, category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Japaridze and G. Niguriani ascended to the Main Peak from the Lekzyr glacier via the Mestian pass, following a route of category 3B difficulty, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass, following a route of category 2B difficulty. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were accomplished for the first time, with a category 4B difficulty: 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east, 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946, the first ascent was made via the "board" to the Western peak, followed by a traverse of the massif to the east, category 5A difficulty — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov. In the 1950s, the conquest of the northern walls began:

• 1951 — V. Abalakov, M. Anufrikov, A. Borovikov, N. Gusak, V. Kizel, V. Nagaev, L. Filimonov, V. Cheredova — Main peak ("Central") via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty,
• 1954 — E. Monucharov, E. Emelyanov, G. Kalepov, B. Sadovsky, G. Senachev, Yu. Chernoslivin — Eastern peak via the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range 3. Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections:

• 3518–3534
• 3596–3694
• 3730–3770

65. Severnaia via the Eastern ridge

The route is a combined one by A. Meshcheryakov, category 3A, fig. 88, 89, 101, 102. Length 700–800 m, duration 7–9 hours. From Vladikavkaz (group of 2–8 people), take a bus for 1.5–2 hours to the village of Kharisdzhin. From the village, walk 1.5–2 km upstream along the gorge road to the right tributary of Fiagdon - the Tsadzhiau River. Cross the river and turn right, ascending via a serpentine trail on the left bank until the gorge turns left to the south. Here, cross the Tsadzhiau River and follow the trail of an old overgrown road on the right bank to approach a mountain lake. The base camp is located on the lake's shore. The journey from the road takes 2.5–3 hours, and from the village of Kharisdzhin - 3–4 hours. From the lake, follow the wide, even bottom of the gorge to reach the terminal moraine of the Tsadzhiau Glacier. From here, there are two options to ascend to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge of Severnaia peak. First option:

• Turn right on the moraine and ascend via scree and easy, crumbling rocks on the right slope to the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge.
• Turn right here and ascend via easy, crumbling rocks and scree on the Southeast buttress to the Eastern shoulder of the Eastern ridge. Second option:
• Proceed along the right moraine upstream through the gorge for several hundred meters, approaching an overhanging rock on the right. A base camp is possible under this rock. The journey from the lake takes 1.5–2 hours.
• From the rock, ascend upstream through the gorge and, bypassing the base of the Southeast buttress of the Eastern ridge, turn right.

Passport

I. Technical climbing category 2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge (southern spur) 3. Pik Moskovskoy Pravdy, main summit 6075 m. 4. 6B (presumably) 5. Height difference 1300 m. 6. Length of sections 5 and 6 cat. diff. – 1020 m (5 – 690, 6 – 330) 7. Average steepness 71–72° 8. Pitons hammered: rock 142, ice 9, bolt 2, chocks 185; used for belays: rock 44, bolt 2, chocks 73. 9. Climbing hours — 49.5

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — TGU peak, 6183 m, center of the W wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1240 m. length of sections 5–6 km tr 1018 m average steepness 78° steepness of the most difficult sections 82–84°.

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness:

Ча­сов processed this section of the path (7 ropes). The detour was made with thorough piton protection and using sport rappel (1 rope, an ice axe with a loop was left). Further, handrails were hung (2 ropes) traversing the wall to the snow-ice mulda. After a short horizontal section of the ridge, the first drop was followed by:

• another drop, one rope,
• then a mulda. Further, again, there was a horizontal section with a cornice and a very steep slope. Having ascended the wall to the mulda, the "two" cut steps along the ridge below the line of cornice break-off for three to four ropes and returned back to the remaining group at 18:00. The remaining "three" were busy with:

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Sofruju peak via the southern wall on July 27-29, 1972

I. Group Composition:

Gubanov Yu. D. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports, senior instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Prima Yu. V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports, radio instructor of the Dombay region Climbing School, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement. Khamtsov A. P. — participant, 1st class, junior instructor, unattached, "Burevestnik" Sports Society, Dombay settlement, Alibek alpine camp worker. Support group led by Candidate for Master of Sports Vorobyev D. G., parallel route on the Main Amanauz peak via the southern wall, category 5B difficulty.

II. Alpine and Geographical Overview of the Sofruju Massif.