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I. Climbing category - winter ascent 2. Climbing area - Issarsky Ridge Orog. Surkh-Nukh 3. Peak, its height and ascent route - Surkh-Nu, 2980 m, via the Southwest ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1380 m, average slope 40°–50°, length of sections R1–20 m, R2–70 m, R3–60 m, R4–…–m, R5–…–m, R6–…–m. 6. Number of pitons driven: For belaying: rock 10, ice, drilled. For creating ITO: 7. Number of travel hours - 9–10 h

1. Climbing category — winter ascents.
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the left counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness of the wall section — 56°, ridge — 30–35°; section lengths: R1 — 500 m, R2 — 240 m, R3 — 260 m, R4 — 85 m, R5 — 15 m, R6 — .
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying for creating anchor points rock 18 pcs. ice —

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — winter ascents.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Surkh-Nu (2980) via the central counterfort of the left part of the SE wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference –880 m average steepness: wall section –50° ridge –20° section lengths:

1. Climbing category — winter ascent
2. Climbing area — Gissar Range, Sur-Kuh spur.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Surkh-Nu peak (2980 m) via the right counterfort, left part of the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 880 m, average steepness: wall section — 56°, ridge — 30°–35°, section lengths: 1st difficulty category — 500 m, 2nd difficulty category — 330 m, 3rd difficulty category — 180 m, 4th difficulty category — 70 m, 5th difficulty category — 0 m, 6th difficulty category — 0 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 10 (0), ice 0 (0), bolted 0 (0), chocks 6 (0).
7. Number of climbing hours — 6 (not including approach to the wall 4 hours and descent from the summit 2 hours).
8. Number of nights, their characteristics — one in the base camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
   1. Kashina Olga Gennadievna CMS

up 536 21.0289 Part 1 1036 1046 Ascent Report Climb Category: Combined Ascent Area: Gissar Ridge, Surkh-Kuh spur. Peak, its height, and ascent route:

• Peak Surkh-Nu via the central counterfort of the southeastern wall
• Height: 2980 m Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: 680 m elevation gain, average slope 45° Section Lengths:
• 1: 800 m

Trident. From the North

Climbing description for Category III route

I. Approaches

The approach to the summit follows the valley next to the Cheryrekh Uchel'ye gorge. Crossing the Maikhura River by fording. There is no trail, and the route goes straight up the valley, through large scree. There is no water visible as it runs under the scree. At the end of the valley, there is a rock wall with gushing water fountains that disappear under the scree 100–150 m below. At this spot, there is a large green meadow suitable for camping. The approach from the road takes 2 hours, with a significant ascent. From the overnight camp, one can pass the wall with fountains (the rocks are easy, with shelves) and reach the glacier cirque.

II. Ascent

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ASCENT DOCUMENT (SECOND ASCENT)

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — Gissar Ridge, Sangalta area
3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak Tu 3640 m via SE edge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Length 1200 m, height difference 850 m, average steepness 57°. Length of sections P.TR. – 20 m, Ш.TR. – 220 m, 1U – 450 m, U – 500 m. Steepness 83°. Number of driven pitons: for rock belay — 78, wooden wedges — 3.
6. MOVING TIME — 13 hours

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Ascent to Ular Peak

from Ular Glacier via couloir — Category 1B difficulty The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque formed by the peaks:

• Khamsdi
• Ulara
• Khyrsa
• Kulay Dzhovanon upwards to the old lateral moraine of Ular Glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular Glacier plateau, which is crossed leftwards towards the Ular massif, leaving Vorob'inyi Pass on the right.

Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II

The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass. From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope. From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area. The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous. The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"