Russian Alpine Championship 2019 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

on the ascent to Zamin-Karor 1st Western peak 4303 m via the northwestern wall, 6A category of complexity (O. Kapitanova), made by the team from the Republic of Tatarstan from August 1 to August 4, 2019. Kazan, 2019

Ascent Passport

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Gissar Ridge, Pamir-Alay.
3. p. Zamin-Karor, 1st ascent, 4303 m, NW wall, rock.
4. Complexity category 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, length of sections 890 m, average steepness of the route 72°
6. Pitons hammered:

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area —
3. Summit — Zamin-Karor, height 4303 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1350 m length of 5–6 sections — 1270 m average steepness — 85–87°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 313, ice —, bolt 8

I. Climbing type — technical 2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Summit — Zamin-Karor I-Western via NW wall. KTMGV 5.2. 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Height difference — 1283 m, including: wall — 980 m. Length — 1635 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1015 m, including: 6th category — 575 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range.
3. Peak — Zamin-Karor 1st West (4303 m) via NW wall, a combination of Yefimov and Kapitanov routes.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1300 m
   • total length — 1500 m
   • average steepness of the wall section 82°
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1250 m

Gissar Range

Zamin-Karor (Yaghnob Wall)

Western shoulder

3910 m ASCENT VIA NW WALL THROUGH THE CAVE, CATEGORY 5B diff. GROUP COMPOSITION:

1. GRUSHEVSKY V.G., 1st sports category, "Khosilot" (team leader) (Dushanbe, Ziv Airport, 4)
2. KASINSKY V.V., 2nd sports category, "Khosilot"
3. LEONOV K., 2nd sports category, "Khosilot"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Yaghnob Wall area.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Zamin-Karor West shoulder, 3910 m, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Height difference (from the base of the wall) — 1100 m.
6. Average steepness — 60°.
7. Total route length — 1600 m.
8. Length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 230 m; 2nd cat. diff. — 100 m; 3rd cat. diff. — 580 m; 4th cat. diff. — 420 m; 5th cat. diff. — 140 m.
9. Number of pitons driven:

Za­min-Ka­ror (Yag­nob­skaya Wa­ll)

West­ern Shoul­der

3910 m ASCENT VIA C — 3 WALL THROUGH K/T CAVE EXPEDITION TEAM: 1. I. Irushevsky V. G. I cat. "Khosilot" (leader) 2. Ka­sinsky V. V. II cat. "Khosilot" 3. Leonov K. II cat. "Khosilot" 4. So­lo­vyov M. A. II cat. "Khosilot" Tajik SSR, Dushanbe

§ 4 Assault Group Composition

After the coaches' council, the following groups were formed:

Assault Group

1. Rusanov Viktor Nikolayevich — leader of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, Candidate Master of Sports in rock climbing
2. Sivtsov Boris Grigoryevich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing
3. Sapoga Yevgeny Alexandrovich — participant of the ascent, Candidate Master of Sports in alpinism, Master of Sports of the USSR in rock climbing
4. Shatilov Vadim Mikhailovich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing

Observation and Communication Group

1. Zhelobotkin Pyotr Ivanovich
2. Alekseenko Alexey Andreyevich

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Gissar ridge, Zamin-Karor massif
3. Zamin-Karor peak (I-st Western) via Western wall through western shoulder
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1300 m, sections of 5B category of difficulty 250 m, average steepness of the route 75°
6. Driven pitons: rock 8 + 4* закладок 42 bolt pitons –