Peak NEVEZUCHAYA from the East

2A – complexity category

Peak NEVEZUCHAЯA is located near Tajikskiye Igizaki.

The approaches are similar to those for p. SHIROKAYA.

Night stay

  • in the gorge of the M. Igizak river
  • at the mountain pasture at the exit from it.

Ascent to the base of the rocks along the grassy slopes of the eastern ridge.

Along easy rocks, directly along the ridge or slightly to the left of it, we approach the rocky belt, 20 m. The belt is traversed on the right along the continuation of the ridge via a chimney-cleft (20 m) with an exit to a good platform. Further, the path also follows the ridge along easy rocks, leading to the 1st summit.

Descending from it to the saddle along easy rocks, we reach the 2nd summit. The summits are of equal height, around 3700 m. Descent from the summit back to the saddle and from it down the couloir to a large platform below the summit. Further, bypassing the eastern ridge along grassy slopes, we reach the start of the ascent and continue the descent along the ascent path.

The entire ascent takes 7–8 hours from the night stay in the gorge and back.

The first ascent was made in the summer of 1966 by a group consisting of:

  • Tkachev V.
  • Shramko A.
  • Pak L.
  • Tkachenko V.
  • Simakin K.

The necessary equipment is standard for climbs of 2B complexity category.

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