Description of the Traverse of the "Piramida" Peak

2B category of difficulty

Departure from the base camp, located in the Avicenna cirque, to the middle moraine at 6 am.

Ascent up the snowy plateau to the "Okno" pass, then left to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd (farthest) gendarmes. Exit to the saddle on snow and rock ledges.

Then we come out to a small gentle snowy plateau (on the east side of the ridge), cross it to the left and approach the ledges to the right of the visible crevice from the plateau.

Further:

– On the ledges to the left, we approach the beginning of a 10 m high wall with good protrusions and holds (protection to the right of the crevice through a protrusion). – Further ascent goes up a vertical (70°) crevice with a small number of holds (hook protection required), 30 m. – Continue ascent along the ridge upwards.

On the way:

– A large stone is encountered; we bypass it on the left (in the direction of travel). – We get to a gentle wide ledge under the summit. – Ascent to the summit is straightforward, along a wide crevice.

The cairn is set slightly below (2 m) the summit.

Descent from the summit:

– 15 m along the crevice; – west along the ledges with exit to the ridge to the first gendarme; – further descent goes south along the ledges to the snowfields, slightly traversing to the left.

Estimated time calculation for a group of 4 people.

From the middle moraine to the "Okno" pass — 1.5 hours.

From the "Okno" pass to the saddle — 40 minutes. Saddle — summit — 2.5 hours.

Summit — middle moraine of the Avicenna glacier — 2 hours.

Equipment:

– 5 rock hooks.

2 hammers.

Compiled by: L.A. Kochev.

Profile. Piramida Peak (view from the north from the plateau).