Sangal'tskiy Zub. From the North

Description of the ascent via route 2A cat. sl.

I. Approaches.

The approaches are the same as those to the peak Avangard, Kopandor.

II. Ascent.

A wide gorge branches off to the right (in the direction of travel) from the overnight stay site. In 40–50 minutes, Sangal'tskiy Zub becomes visible on the right.

The ascent to the northern ridge is possible via any of the counterforts — grassy slopes, easy rocks. The actual ascent to the ridge is possible depending on the state of the slope:

• directly up the easy rocks;
• or initially to the saddle in the right part of the ridge.

The ridge is wide, the rocks are easy, with several low (10–15 m) gendarmes, which are ascended directly (rocks of medium difficulty). Belays are made to projections.

The ascent to the summit itself is:

• along a wide inclined ledge;
• over easy rocks, in places of medium difficulty;
• with an exit onto the pre-summit slabs;
• and then to the summit.

Descent is via the ascent route. Time required for the ascent from the camp is 7–8 hours.

The first ascent was made in November 1966 by a group consisting of:

• Tkachev V.K.
• Solov'eva T.N.
• Lavrukhin V.I.

SANGAL'TSKIY ZUB from the north