Western Sayan
Route Description: В стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent description of the "Echo" route, category 5A, on the eastern wall of Ptitsa peak in the Ergaki Range, Western Sayan.
I recommend approving the 5B route for the group. Balezin V.
Ascent Record
- Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan.
- Summit — Ptitsa via the Eastern wall. "Ekho" route.
- Proposed — Category 5A, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; main section elevation gain 300 m; average steepness of the main section 72°.
Route Description: кф. СВ стены
SSummitMateClimbing route passport for Ptitsa Peak via S. wall spur in Western Sayan, 5A difficulty grade, first ascent in 1997.
Ascent Passport
- Rock climbing category
- Climbing area: Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki Ridge
- Ptitsa Peak, 2200 m, via the buttress on the N wall
- Proposed category: 5A, first ascent
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain: 400 m
- Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 160 m
- Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
- Average steepness of the ridge section: 30°
Route Description: с пер.Молодежный
SSummitMateDescriptions of two mountain routes from Molodezhny Pass: category 16 route to Pik Uchiteley and category 1B route to Pik Molodezhny, including details on the approach and specific characteristics of the routes.
The ascent leader and author of the description is Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from the Molodezhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the Mramorny lake side. From the lake, a trail leads towards the pass, which ends at a talus slope. The ascent is via the scree, bypassing the "ram's foreheads". This path to the pass is:
- the shortest,
- not the easiest to ascend,
- not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodezhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail follows the ridge towards Molodezhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodezhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.
16 to Uchyitel peak:
The route starts from Molodezhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the peak on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.
1B to Molodezhny peak
Route Description: центру В стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent via the center of the eastern wall of Pik Uchiteley (Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan) with a complexity category of 4A.
Report
of the "Voshozhdenie" climbers' sports club team (Barnaul) on the ascent to Uchiteley peak via the center of the eastern wall first ascent, estimated at 4A Participants: Ozerov I.M. Ivanov V.L. 2016
Ascent Data Sheet
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section 6.2 of the mountain route classifier.
Route Description: карнизам С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the summit Chernaya 1915 m via the North wall in the Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan, 6B category of difficulty.
gorge
- v. Chernaya 1915 m, via the cornices of the Northern wall, 2004 (first ascent) difficulty category
- Team leader: Devi M.M.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river
- Section in the classification
22nd Open Championship
of Russia in Alpinism
2004
Rock Climbing Class
Route Description: центру С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the "Blackbird" route, category 6A, via the center of the northern wall of the peak Chernyaya (1915 m) in winter.
Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai
KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION
Russian Championship in Alpinism
2016
High-Altitude Technical Class
Report
On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team On Verchina Chernaya, 1915 m, via the center of the N wall, route "Chernaya Drozda" First ascent, orient. 6Az cat. diff. (First winter ascent in this area on the Taigishon wall) Krasnoyarsk 2016
Route Description: левой части В стены и ЮВ кф.
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the 4A category route to Ptitsa peak in the Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki ridge, by the Barnaul alpine club "Voshozhdenie" team on July 29, 2020.
Report
on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Ptitsa via the left part of the eastern wall and the southeast buttress, category 4A, by the team of the "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club (Barnaul) on July 29, 2020
I. Climbing Report
| № p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the team members | Trufanov Maxim Sergeevich, Candidate for Master of Sports |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Guselnikov Vitaly Mikhailovich, Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: СЗ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Pik Dinosaur via the NW wall, 6A category of complexity, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in October 2020.
Report
On the first ascent to Dinosaur Peak via the NW wall, 6Az category of difficulty, by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 15, 2020.
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Ivanov Timofey Pavlovich — Candidate for Master of Sports |
Route Description: З стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent made by a team from the 5th Center for Training and Sports to the top of Golova Sayan via the West Face route rated as category 3A.
Report
On ascending to the summit of Golova Sayana via the W. wall, 3A cat. diff. by team 5 of the training center for military-sports training on June 16, 2020.
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank. Shustov Anton Mikhailovich, 2nd sports rank. |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich |
| 1.4 | Organization | 5th training center for military-sports training |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: левой части Ю стены
SSummitMateReport on the passage of a Category III route on the left part of the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in Ergaki, Western Sayan.
Report
on the ascent to the summit Zvezdny, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B, cat. diff. Second passage by the team Moscow–St. Petersburg On July 7, 2021
I. Ascent Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Balagurin S.O. (CMS) |