Report

On ascending to the summit of Golova Sayana via the W. wall, 3A cat. diff. by team 5 of the training center for military-sports training on June 16, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich, CMS
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank. Shustov Anton Mikhailovich, 2nd sports rank.
1.3	Full name of the coach	Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4	Organization	5th training center for military-sports training
	2. Characteristics of the ascent object
2.1	Region	Western Sayan
2.2	Valley	Ergaki Ridge
2.3	Section number according to the 2013 classification table	6.2
2.4	Name and height of the summit	Golova, 1970 m
2.5	Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates *(1)	---
	3. Characteristics of the route
3.1	Route name	via W. wall
3.2	Proposed category of difficulty	3A
3.3	Degree of route exploration	---
3.4	Relief characteristics of the route	Rock
3.5	Height difference of the route (altimeter or GPS data)	193 m (1941–1748)
3.6	Route length (in meters)	270 m
3.7	Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of varying difficulty with relief characteristics)	I cat. diff. rocks — m II cat. diff. rocks — 195 m III cat. diff. rocks — 25 m IV cat. diff. rocks — 50 m Descent rappel (on descent) — (number of ropes and total meters)
3.8	Descent from the summit	Via the ascent route (270 m), 3A
3.9	Additional route characteristics	Presence (absence) of water
	4. Characteristics of the team's actions
4.1	Time of movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days)	7.5 hours
4.2	Overnight stays	no
4.3	Departure on the route	7:00 June 16, 2020
4.4	Reaching the summit	12:15 June 16, 2020
4.5	Return to the base camp	14:30 June 16, 2020
	5. Person responsible for the report
5.1	Full name, e-mail	Kraitor Sergey Grigorievich, kraitor@bk.ru

II. Route Description.

1. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Photo 1. General photo of the summit (taken from the 5A Prokofiev report)

Photo 2. Photo of the route profile

2. Route Characteristics.

Route Description by Sections.

R0–R1 60 m. 30°, II cat. diff. The section is traversed left upwards along a ledge-crack. Protection via rocks (medium-sized friends). Climbing is straightforward.

R1–R2 20 m. 45°, II cat. diff. The crack turns into a wall, which is traversed centrally. Sufficient holds and protection points. Protection via rocks (medium-sized friends).

R2–R3 5 m. 60°, II+ cat. diff. The rock wall, leading to a grassy ledge, is traversed on the right side. Climbing is straightforward.

R3–R4 30 m. 30°, II cat. diff. The grassy ledge is traversed with protection on the rocks.

R4–R5 50 m. 60°, IV cat. diff. The key section of the route. The inner corner at the top of the section turns into a wall. Limited protection points. Holds are sparse and limited. Traversed on the left side of the corner, moving right at the top.

R5–R6 20 m. 30°, II cat. diff. The grassy ledge is traversed with protection on the rocks.

R6–R7 25 m. 45°, III cat. diff. The wall has limited holds and protection points. The top station is set up on a rock outcrop.

R7–R8 20 m. 45°, II cat. diff. The wall is traversed via a grass-filled crack. Small friends are used for protection.

R8–R9 40 m. 45°, II cat. diff. The inner corner leads to the summit plateau.

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions.

Before the ascent, the group camped under the route. The approach to the route from Raduzhnoe Lake takes about 1 hour. On the plateau under the route: — There are camping areas — There is water in the stream under the wall — Cellular connection is available (Tele2) In dry weather, the route is traversed without issues. In wet weather, the passage is complicated on the key section due to the limited number of obvious holds.

The ascent was made in good weather. There are small remnants of winter snow on the route. Heights on the route sections were measured using a phone's GPS.