Western Sayan

Mountain range126,946.50 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent of Zakharov N. N. group to Zubatyi (Zub) Dragon peak (2050 m) in Ergaki mountain range along the ridge, category 2A, first ascent on February 13, 1997.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Pik Zub Dragona, 2050 m, 3rd ridge.
  4. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m, length 750 m, average slope 23°.
  6. Pitons driven: chocks 7, pitons 0.
  7. Climbing hours 4, days 1.
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### Description of a Category 5 Climbing Route to Zub Dragona Peak (2021 m) via the Northwest Wall in Ergaki Details on the technical aspects and approach to the route.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category: rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak: Zub Drakona (Dragon's Tooth), 2021 m, via the edge of the S wall.
  4. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 400 m; route length: approximately 600 m; length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 200 m; average steepness: 56°;
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Description of the first ascent of a 6A category rock climbing route to Zub Dragona (2170 m) peak in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.

Ascent Record

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
  3. Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
  4. Claimed — 6A first ascent
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.
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Description of a 6A category complexity route to the top of Zub Dragona (2,170 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan, climbed by Krasnoyarsk climbers in 1999.

Exit from the grotto, section #10-11, taken from overnight stay #2

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: Rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion
  4. Proposed category: 6A
  5. Route characteristics: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion. Proposed category: 6A. Route characteristics:
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First ascent of the South Face of the Zub Drakona (2170 m) peak in the Western Sayan Mountains, category 6A, 615 m, 313 belays.

Ascent Record

  1. Climbing area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak — Zub Drakona, 2170 m. Direttissima of the main tower, South wall.
  3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, 1st ascent.
  4. Climbing class — rock.
  5. Height difference — 520 m. Total length 615 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty 415 m, 5th category of difficulty 180 m. Average steepness of the route 80°. Main part 93°.
  6. Total of 13 pitons left on the route, including 13 Petzl bolts. Pitons used on the route: 13/9 fixed bolts, 220/180 chocks, 43/43 removable bolts, 44/44 skyhooks, 45/37 rock pitons.
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Description of the first ascent via the southwestern wall of the central spire of the Pik Zub Drakona in the Western Sayan Mountains, 6A grade.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak — Zub Drakona via the center of the SW wall of the central tower
  3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route character — rock climbing
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 460 m. Route length — 580 m. Section lengths:
  • 6th category of difficulty — 340 m.
  • 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of the lower part: 70°, upper part — 90°, entire route — 70°
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Ascent record of the ascent to Zub drakona peak via the South face to the middle tower in Western Sayan, 6 cat., first ascent in 2001.

ASCENT PASSPORT­­

  1. Ascent class­­ — rock.
  2. Ascent area­­ — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Zub drakona peak via South wall to the middle tower (first ascent).
  4. Difficulty category­­ — 6
  5. Route characteristics. a) Height difference­­ — 400 m; b) Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty­­ — 331 m; c) Average steepness of the wall­­ — 27
  6. Pitons used. a) rock­­ — 40; b) chocks­­ — 150; c) bolt­­ — 0 (used from previously hammered­­ — 0)
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First ascent via the South-West wall of Zub Drakona peak (Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan) 6A cat. dif. 560 m, 480 m height difference, 48 h of walking time.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge.
  2. Peak — Zуб Дракона (Dragon's Tooth) via the center of the southwest wall of the Western Tower.
  3. Assumed — 6A category of difficulty. First ascent.
  4. Route type — rock climbing.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 480 m;
    • route length — 560 m;
    • section lengths:
      • 6B category of difficulty — 200 m;
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First ascent via the South Face of Zub Dragona North-West (2000 m) in Ergaki, grade 5B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain group.
  3. Peak — Zub Dragona Severo-Zapadnaya (Dragon's Tooth Northwest), 2000 m. Via the south wall.
  4. Estimated difficulty category 5B, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, length 590 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 500 m, average steepness — 70°.
  6. 130/32 cams used on the route.
  7. Total climbing time — 21 hours.
  8. One overnight stay on a ledge under a cornice.
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Description of a new combined 1Бз route to the summit of Koshurnikova (2300 m) in the Western Sayan, Borus ridge, climbed in March 2013.

6.2 Western Sayan Koshurnikova 2300 m, 1B category, From the ridge Zhigalov A.V. March 17, 2013

Climbing Passport

  1. Type of climb — combined
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Borus ridge
  3. Peak Koshurnikova, 2300 m, From the ridge
  4. Proposed — 1B first ascent
  5. Route characteristics:
  • height difference — 950 m
  • total length 1700 m
  • length of sections: 2nd category complexity — 100 m
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