Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Climbing area: Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki Ridge
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2200 m, via the buttress on the N wall
4. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 400 m
   • Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 160 m
   • Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
   • Average steepness of the ridge section: 30°
6. Protection: 60/25
7. Climbing time: 13 hours
8. Participants: Tsyganov Dmitry Valerievich, Candidate for Master of Sports Terentyev Alexander Yurievich, 1st sports category
9. Approach and descent: June 24, 1997 Route photograph taken from Zvezdny Pass.

Area map

Technical photograph of the route. Photo on the right. Route profile.

Route diagram and description

Route diagram and description in UIAA symbols:

R0–R1 45 m 70° 5 R1–R2 45 m 80° 5 R2–R3 45 m 70° 5 R3–R4 40 m 40° 3 R4–R5 45 m 85° 5+ R5–R6 45 m 75° 4+ R6–R7 40 m 40° 3 R7–R8 Ridge 200 m 20° R8–R9 30 m 60° 4 R9–R10 25 m 65° 4

Route description

From the saddle slightly to the right of the north ridge of Ptitsa Peak, rappel 30 m to a grassy ledge under the start of the route.

Section 0–1. Steep slabs with pronounced cracks, convenient for climbing and belaying.

Section 1–2. Up the wall towards an internal corner with a corniche. The corniche is bypassed on the right.

Section 2–3. Steep slab, followed by a wide crack 8 m, exit onto wide grassy ledges.

Section 3–4. Along the ledges towards a vertically standing square flake. On the middle ledge — a control cairn.

Section 4–5. Up the vertical internal corner of the flake to a narrow ledge. Then a narrow vertical crack filled with earth and grass. Climbing on artificial aids.

Section 5–6. From a narrow sloping ledge through an overhang to a convenient crack for climbing. Along it and further up a steep slab to an internal corner.

Section 6–7. Up the internal corner 20 m to a grassy ledge, then 20 m left to a tooth on the ridge.

Section 7–8. Ridge about 150 m, then traverse left along the ledges under the summit tower.

Section 8–9. Exit via cracks to the summit ridge.

Section 9–10. Along the ledge and wall with a crack — exit to the summit.