Ascent Record

Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan.
Summit — Ptitsa via the Eastern wall. "Ekho" route.
Proposed — Category 5A, first ascent.
Route type — rock.
Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; main section elevation gain 300 m; average steepness of the main section 72°.
Equipment used on the route: chocks — 35 pieces; pitons — 20 pieces.
Duration — 12 hours.
No overnight stays.
Team members: Galatsevich Polina Pavlovna CMS Shneider Elena Igorevna CMS
Team coaches: Balezin Valery Viktorovich ICMS Zakharov Nikolay Nikolaevich ICMS, Honored Coach of Russia
Dates: Departure — at 7:00 on July 24, 2009. Summit — at 19:00 on July 24, 2009. Return — at 20:30 on July 24, 2009.
The ascent was made as part of the Russian Championship in the rock climbing category.

2009

General photo: Ptitsa E wall. 1 — first ascent, "Ekho" route. 2 — Category 5A route (Tsyganova). 3 — Category 5A route (Railko).

Ptitsa 2221 m. Hand-drawn profile of the route on the E wall ("Ekho").

Eastern wall. View from the left. Taken from the base camp at Svetloe Lake.

Section	Total anchors	Total chocks	Chocks used	UIAA Pitch	Length, steepness, climbing difficulty
10				R10
9		2		R9	30 m, 60°, III+
8				R8	40 m, 25°, II
7				R7	50 m, 40°, II
6	5	2		R6	45 m, 80°, V
5	4/4	5/4		R5	30 m, 45°, IV 15 m, 80°, V, A2
4	2	6/2		R4	45 m, 80°, V
3		5/4	2	R3	20 m, 75°, V 30 m, 70°, III
2	5/2	7/3		R2	50 m, 80°, V
1	4/1	2/2		R1	40 m, 75°, V
0		1		R0	50 m, 60°, III

Description of the "Ekho" 5A Category Route on the Eastern Wall of Ptitsa Peak (Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan)

Compiled by: Galatsevich P. P.

R0–R1. II, 50 m. Approach via snowfield, then along a grassy ledge to the right to a 3 m chimney, exit to a ledge with large rocks.

R1–R2. Continue further to the right along the ledge, a 4 m wall (free climbing), then left along narrow grassy ledges (free climbing, pendulum on a piton, free climbing) to a ledge under the cornice.

R2–R3. Traverse the cornice on the left by free climbing on the slab (80°), then a wall with cracks (fifi hooks, pitons, higher — chocks), a small ledge, then a wall with a wide, uncomfortable crack (free climbing), exit to a ledge under a large chimney.

R3–R4. Traverse the chimney on a narrow diagonal ledge to the left, then to the right past the chimney and further to the second internal corner. On the left side of the internal corner, a clean stopper crack, exit to a ledge with two cedars.

R4–R5. Internal corner (possibly free climbing), then along ledges to the right, then slightly to the left, internal corner (free climbing), exit to a rocky talus, belay on a rock.

R5–R6. Internal corner with a grassy crack (aid climbing), exit to a large sloping ledge (40°) with cracks. Along the ledge to the right to a step.

R6–R7. Along the ridge of the ledge, exit to a sloping slab (free climbing). Up the slab to an internal corner with a slight overhang (free climbing). Exit to simple terrain.

R7–R9. Grassy ledges, ridge, grassy ledges.

R9–R10. Exit to the summit via walls with cracks and ledges (free climbing).