Report

of the "Voshozhdenie" climbers' sports club team (Barnaul) on the ascent to Uchiteley peak via the center of the eastern wall

first ascent, estimated at 4A

Participants: Ozerov I.M. Ivanov V.L. 2016

Ascent Data Sheet

Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section 6.2 of the mountain route classifier.
Uchiteley, 2031 m, via the center of the eastern wall.
Proposed category: 4A, first ascent.
Route type: rock climbing.
Height difference: 331 m (GPS).

Route length: 440 m. Length of sections (wall part of the route):

V category – 45 m
IV category – 105 m. Average slope: 43°. Average slope of the wall section: 66°.

Equipment used (including for setting up belay stations):

Rock anchors – 28 pcs., including 7 for artificial aids.
Chocks – 27 pcs., including 6 for artificial aids.

Hooks left on the route: 0 total; including bolt hangers: 0.

Team's climbing time: 8 hours, 1 day.
Team leader: Ozerov Ivan Mikhaylovich, 1st sports category.

Participants: Ivanov Viktor Leonidovich, 2nd sports category.

Coach: Endelin Oleg Vladimirovich, Master of Sports.
Departure from base camp to Svetloe lake: 5:00, August 1, 2016.

Start of work on the route: 7:50, August 1, 2016. Reaching the summit: 15:50, August 1, 2016. Return to base camp: 20:00, August 1, 2016. Descent via route 1B towards Molodezhny pass.

Organization: "Voshozhdenie" Climbers' Sports Club (Barnaul). http://climb-club.ru↗
Responsible for the report: Ozerov I.M. E-mail: iozerov@mail.ru

Photograph of the peak's general view (taken on June 17, 2014 from Mramornoe lake) – Team's route – 1B, from Molodezhny pass, L.Suvorkina, 2005 Photopanorama of the area (taken on June 17, 2014 from Mramornoe lake) Uchiteley peak Molodezhny peak Molodezhny pass Hand-drawn profile of the route Route diagram in UIAA symbols Technical photograph of the route

Route Description by Sections

R0–R1 — Start via a chimney (40 m, 75°, IV). Varied climbing (cam-outs, mizera, laybacks). Chimney walls are wet. Station on a convenient green ledge. R1–R2 — Continuation of the chimney (40 m, 75°, IV–V). Climbing becomes more difficult. Station on a green ledge 7 m below the cornice. R2–R3 — At the start of the rope, the first "crux" is a small cornice in the chimney. Climbed using free climbing. Then the chimney narrows to 20–30 cm and begins to ease (40 m, 70°, IV–V). Station on a green ledge. R3–R4 — At the end of the chimney, we exit onto an inclined green ledge and then move up towards the black internal corner. Climbing is not difficult (40 m, 45°, II–III). R4–R5 — Continue moving along the green ledge (40 m, 45°, II). R5–R6 — Second "crux" — a black internal corner (25 m, 90°, V+, A2). Climbed using artificial aids. Rocks are fragile. At the top of the corner, we move left-upwards via a crack onto the ridge using free climbing (15 m, 80°, IV). Station on a good rock ledge. R6–R7 — Easy climbing to the summit (200 m, 15°, II–III). Simultaneous movement.

Descent towards Molodezhny pass via route 1B and then to Mramornoe lake.

Tactical and Technical Actions of the Team

The chosen line was scouted during an alpine event in 2014. Then, for reconnaissance, we ascended Uchiteley peak via route 1B, but the departure date did not allow us to climb the new route.

In 2016, we returned to Ergaki. To prepare, we climbed classified routes:

4A (Ivanov–Ozerov team)
4B (Ivanov–Lezhnev–Ozerov team)

Overall, the participants have experience on routes up to 5B category in the area.

Weather in July–August in the area is unstable. Assuming that the lower part can only be climbed via free climbing on dry rocks, we waited for a clear day.

On August 1, we departed from base camp to Svetloe lake at 5:00. The scenic approach through Medvezhye lake, Mramorny waterfall, and Mramornoe lake took 2 hours 30 minutes.

We started the ascent at 7:50. Weather is excellent. Movement is in alternating lead. The leader goes on a single dynamic rope, dragging the rope behind. The second climber ascends on the rope with belay. We reached the second crux (R5–R6) at 13:30. Weather worsened — rain, fog. By 15:30, we reached the ridge and then the summit at 15:50.

From the summit, we descended via rocks and a trail along the ridge to Molodezhny pass. Then we walked from the pass, gradually moving under the slopes of Molodezhny peak, as it's possible to slip into gullies on the right.

In clear weather, the eastern wall is visible from the camp at Svetloe lake. The route follows a distinct relief, making it hard to get lost.

We were unable to get good photographs of the route's side profile due to the terrain (the route is obscured by the continuation of the eastern wall).

After rain, water flows through sections R0–R3 (chimney), significantly complicating climbing. For the terrain, the following are suitable: