1. Mt. Orel 1915 m, center of North wall, 2004 (first ascent) diff. cat.
2. Leader: Davy M.M., Master of Sport
3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river gorge
4. Section in Classification

22nd Open Russian Championship in Alpinism 2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk region (FAiS Sverdlovsk region) on Mt. Orel 1915 m via the center of the north wall. 6B category of difficulty.

Addresses:

TITLE PAGE Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2. Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.

Title Page

Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff. 6.2.

Irkutsk.

Climbing Passport for Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Nizhnee Buibinskoe gorge, section 6.2. 2. Orehek peak (1850) via the South Face. 3. Proposed cat. 2B diff., winter, first ascent. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain — 100 m, length — 400 m, average slope — 10°; wall section — 85°. 6. Pitons hammered: wired — 15 pcs, natural features used for belay — 4 times. 7. Team's total climbing time — 7 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team members: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vlasov V.E. badge Idrisov R.I. badge Lazarenko A.V. badge Nesterov V.N. badge

Ascent Record

1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Parus via the center of the S wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 500 m. route length — 550 m. length of sections with 6 category of difficulty — 300 m, 5 category of difficulty — 100 m.

Average steepness

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Ptitsa, 2150 m, from the south, permit No. 15 dated 24/11-97, 1.22 2B category
4. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 550 m; length 900 m; average slope 40°.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak — Ptitsa 2150 m, via the southern slope, rock climbing
4. Proposed category — 2B first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 130 m, total length — 160 m, average slope: entire route — 50°
6. Equipment used on the route — 12 stoppers

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
2. Peak — Ptitsa, 2221 m, via "Sickle" of the SE wall
3. Claimed — 2B category difficulty — first ascent
4. Route character — rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m, total route length — 325 m. length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 15 m, 4th category difficulty — 60 m, 3rd category difficulty — 70 m. average steepness of the entire route 50°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa peak, height 2150 m, SE buttress, route character — rock climbing.
4. Estimated difficulty category 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 400 m; section lengths: 3rd diff. cat. — 140 m, 4th diff. cat. — 80 m; average steepness of the route — 45–50°.
6. Used rock protection — 5/0 (numerator — total quantity, denominator — for creating artificial anchor points).
7. Number of moving hours — 5 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.

Passport

Protocol No. 12 dated 23.01.1996, item 8. 45th SK.

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2220 m, S ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 330 meters; length 430 meters; length of category 5 section 85 meters. Average steepness of the route 56°.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Peak: Ptitsa 2221 m. Centre of the SE wall
3. Claimed: 4B cat. sl. First ascent
4. Route character: Rock
5. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain: 441 m
   • Route length: 550 m
   • Length of sections: II–III — 270 m, IV — 150 m, V — 130 m
   • Average steepness of the entire route: 56°