Карта­-­схе­ма района Схе­ма хре­бов За­пад­но­го Са­я­на Duty officer of the Siberian Regional Rescue Team, Krasnoyarsk tel.: (3912) 28­-­90­-­01 The Sayan mountain system is located in southern Siberia, northeast of Altai, west of Lake Baikal. The Sayan mountains are divided into two separate mountain systems:

• Eastern Sayan
• Western Sayan The Borus mountain ridge is located in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, on the border with the Republic of Khakassia. The nearest settlement is the urban-type settlement Cheremushki (300 m above sea level). The settlement of the hydroelectric power plant Sayano-Shushenskaya, which is located 2 km from the center. The approach from the settlement to the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The Borus ridge consists of five peaks. The highest point in the area is p. Borus, 2320 m above sea level. The old name of the peak is гора Пойлов (Poylov mountain), named after one of the pioneers of the region. Borus is the most visited area, a tourist center for:
• athletes,

Peak Koshurnikova

Approximately category 2A complexity via the spur of the eastern ridge. 45 minutes from the base camp. The start of the route is a steep rock wall (75–80°). Difficult climbing, pitons, 30 m. Further, heavily snowed rock at 45–50°. (In the period from March to May, there is a lot of flow ice) Movement in rope teams, alternating, 200 m. Further, on the left side of a vaguely defined ridge, along destroyed rocks with simultaneous belay. Then along the wide eastern ridge to the summit. Descent along the eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5 hours. Required equipment for 6 people:

• Main rope 40 m — 3 lengths.
• Rock pitons — 4 pcs.
• Hammers — 2 pcs.

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Borus Ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Koschurnikova, 2300 m, via the Central North-Eastern slope through "Monkado"
3. Category – 3A cat. diff. – first ascent
4. Route Type – Rock climbing
5. Route Description: elevation gain – 650 m, total route length – 1195 m, wall section length before reaching the counterfort – 365 m, section lengths:

KOSHURNKOVA PEAK. Via the southern ridge, category 2A, approximate

From the base camp 1.5 hours. The start of the route is a snow couloir with a slope of 45–50°. The snow is dry and loose. Under the snow is a large scree. Simultaneous movement in belay teams - 30 minutes. Ascent to a large gendarme from the invisible side (photo 1) with alternate belay (1 piton) - 20 minutes. Rocks of medium difficulty. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme is simultaneous down easy rocks. Further (photo 2) along a simple ridge to the second gendarme: 5 m straight up, 1 piton. Descent from the gendarme is straightforward onto the ascent of a sharp ridge (40 m) - fixed rope. The steepness of the ascent is 30–35°. After the ascent, the slope becomes more gentle and descends to a subtle col. Movement is simultaneous. Then - ascent to the very summit. Rocks of medium difficulty with good protrusions for simultaneous belay. Steepness is 35°. From the control cairn to the summit is one and a half to two hours. Descent is along the wide eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5–4 hours. Necessary equipment for a group of 6 people:

Climbing passport.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Sayany.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — unnamed, 2300 m, South-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 35°.
6. Pitons driven for belay: rock — 5, ice — , bolt — .
7. Number of travel hours — 5.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Western Sayan, Bорус ridge.
3. Peak Koshurnikova (2010 m), via the center of the eastern slope.
4. Proposed category: 3A difficulty level.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m distance — 600 m average slope — 45°
6. Equipment used on the route:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — combined
2. Region — Western Sayan, Borus ridge
3. Pik Koshurnikova, 2300 m, S wall via zhendarme
4. Assumed — 3B, first ascent

5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 450 m.
• total length — 950 m.
• length of sections: 5th cat. diff. — 49 m, 4th cat. diff. — 55 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 131 m.

The wall with cornices, the key section R2–R3, view from above The section R3–R4, view from above □ □ The summit of Кошурникова at 16:10, October 17, 2013

Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads". This path to the pass is:

• the shortest,
• not the easiest to ascend,
• not the safest to descend. From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
5. Route type: rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m.