Western Sayan

Mountain range126,946.50 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of a Category 5B route through the center of the South Face of Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) in the Western Sayan Mountains.

Report

on the ascent to Zvezdny peak, 2265 m. Via the center of the South face, category 5B complexity. First ascent by the Krasnoyarsk team on July 11, 2022.

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderTerentyeva G.A. (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKozlova A.P. (MS)
1.3Full name of the coachProkofiev D.E. (MS), Zakharov N.N. (MSMK), Balezin V.V. (MSMK)
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 2B to the Splyashchiy Sayan peak (1,998 m) in the Western Sayan Mountains.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "SPYASHCHIY SAYAN" VIA THE ROUTE "PO Z. STENE CHEREZ RUKI" (WESTERN WALL VIA "RUKI") OF 2B CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TEAM OF THE 5TH TRAINING CENTER FOR MILITARY-SPORTS TRAINING ON OCTOBER 10, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderShirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsKraytor Sergey Grigorievich, Candidate Master of Sports, Popov Danil Anatolievich, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the CoachKraytor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4Organization5th Training Center for Military-Sports Training
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the first ascent of 4B-5A category route on the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Western Sayan Mountains.

Siberian Federal District Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class 2022

Report

on the ascent to the Zvezdny peak, 2265 m via the right part of the South wall angles, 4B–5A cat. diff., first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk team from August 12, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderProkofiev D.E. (MS)
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Description of a new rock climbing route, category 2B, "through the chimney of the South Wall" to Ptitsa peak (2221 m) in Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.

Ascent Log

  1. Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
  2. Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
  3. Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
  4. Route nature – rock climbing
  5. Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
  6. Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.
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Description of a new Category IIIB route to Zerkalny Peak in the Ergaki Range, Western Sayan Mountains, with a detailed breakdown of the stages and equipment used.

Passport

  1. Rock climbing category
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Zerkalny peak, via the western ridge shelf.
  4. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference – 280 m. Total length – 340 m. Average slope of the entire route – 45°. Crux slope – 70–75°. Length of sections with IV, V category of difficulty – 75–80 m.
  6. Equipment used on the route: Fifi hooks – 2 pcs., anchor pitons – 7 pcs., stoppers – 8 pcs., cams – 30 pcs.
  7. Climbing hours: 12, days: 1.
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Report on the first ascent of a route through the center of the North face of Ptitsa (2221 m) peak in Ergaki, category 5B.

Russian Championship in Alpinism

High-Technical Class 2021

Report on the Ascent to Ptitsa Peak, 2221 meters.

Via the center of the North wall, 5B category of complexity. First ascent by the Krasnoyarsk team on July 23, 2021.

I. Passport of the Ascent 1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKozlova A.P. (MS)
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsSeryupova D.R. (MS)
1.3Full name of coachProkofiev D.E. (MS), Zakharov N.N. (MSMK), Balezin V.V. (MSMK)
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Report on the first ascent of category 5B route on the left side of the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in Ergaki.

Siberian Federal District Climbing Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2018

Report

on the ascent to Zvezdny peak, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B category of complexity. First ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk on July 19, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderProkofiev D.E. (MS)
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Report on the passage of a Category III route on the left part of the southern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in Ergaki, Western Sayan.

Report

on the ascent to the summit Zvezdny, 2265 m via the left part of the South wall, 5B, cat. diff. Second passage by the team Moscow–St. Petersburg On July 7, 2021

I. Ascent Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBalagurin S.O. (CMS)
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Report on the ascent made by a team from the 5th Center for Training and Sports to the top of Golova Sayan via the West Face route rated as category 3A.

Report

On ascending to the summit of Golova Sayana via the W. wall, 3A cat. diff. by team 5 of the training center for military-sports training on June 16, 2020.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKraitor Sergey Grigorievich, CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsShirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank. Shustov Anton Mikhailovich, 2nd sports rank.
1.3Full name of the coachKraitor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4Organization5th training center for military-sports training
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
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Report on the first ascent of Pik Dinosaur via the NW wall, 6A category of complexity, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in October 2020.

Report

On the first ascent to Dinosaur Peak via the NW wall, 6Az category of difficulty, by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 15, 2020.

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich — Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsIvanov Timofey Pavlovich — Candidate for Master of Sports
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