ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Borus via the N ridge, cat. 1B difficulty (Western Sayan, Borus Ridge) VIEW OF BORUS SUMMIT FROM THE BASE CAMP ASCENT TO OBSERVATION POINT CHARACTER OF THE ROCK ON THE R1 SECTION

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Region — Western Sayan, Borus ridge
3. Peak Borus, 2318 m, via 3rd ridge, through Borus (3)
4. Proposed — 2A first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 600 m.
• total length 1670 m.
• length of sections: 3rd cat. diff. — 50 m, 2nd cat. diff. — 770 m.

6. Equipment used on the route:

Schematic map of the Western Sayan ridges The Sayan mountain system is located in the south of Siberia, northeast of Altai, west of Lake Baikal. The Sayan Mountains are divided into two separate mountain systems:

• Eastern Sayan
• Western Sayan The Borus mountain range is located in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Krai, on the border with the Republic of Khakassia. The nearest settlement is the urban-type settlement of Cheremushki (300 m above sea level). The settlement of the hydroelectric power station, Sayano-Shushenskaya Dam, is located 2 km from the center. The approach from the settlement to the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The Borus ridge consists of five peaks. The highest point in the Borus area is 2320 m above sea level. The old name of the peak is Poylov Mountain, named after one of the pioneers of the region. Borus is the most visited area, a tourist center for athletes, enthusiasts, and ordinary residents of the villages Cheremushki, Maina, Siza, and the city of Sayano-Shushenskaya. This is due to its accessibility, variety of tourist routes, and the beauty of the mountains in the area. Borus is an excellent training ground for alpine climbing and rock climbing, as well as for conducting training camps. The rocks here are strong, not very cracked, and there is no ice. There are 8 routes from 1B to 3B category of difficulty. The approaches to the rocks are short: within 1-2 hours, an athlete can approach the nearest walls from the base camp. Tourists show a huge interest in the area. Family recreation has become popular among locals and visiting guests.

6.2.2

I. Rock climbing category. 2. Western Sayan, Borus ridge. 3. Mt. Borus, 2320 m, via NW slope. 4. Proposed category 3A, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 470 m, length 805 m. Average slope of main part of the route is 40° 6. Pitons used: rock 0, chocks 6 7. Climbing time: 8 hours. 8. Overnight stays: none. 9. Participants: Zakharov Nikolay Nikolayevich, Master of Sports of International Class

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Borus ridge.
3. g. Borus Zapadny, 2250 m, along the slope category.
4. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 320 m, length: 650 m, Average slope of the main part of the route 42°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chocks | | :--- | :----- | | 20 | 7 |

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via the center of the SW wall Prokofiev D.E. July 10, 2013

Ascent Record

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, via the center of the SW wall. 5A.
3. Assumed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route description: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of 6th category sections — 100 m. length of 4th category sections — 345 m. average slope — 57°, main part 70°
6. Equipment left on the route: total 0

End of the R0–R1 section. Denis Prokofiev at the R1 station Start of the R1–R2 section Denis Prokofiev on the R2–R3 section Key sections of the route, R3–R5. Approach to the R3 station. Denis Prokofiev approaching the chimney, key section R4–R5, shot from the R4 station

6.2 Western Sayan Golova, 1970 m, 5A, via center of SW wall Prokofiev D.E. August 10, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan
2. Summit — Golova, 1970 m, via center of SW wall. 5A.
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m. route length — 445 m. length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 100 m. length of sections 4 cat. diff. — 345 m. average steepness

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Golova Sayana (1970 m) via the left part of the NW wall, category 5A, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, from May 25, 2018, to May 26, 2018.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, direct route up the E wall, route name "Slesarnya". Category — 5B cat. sl., first ascent. Route type — rock climb. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, total route length — 470 m, length of wall section — 320 m, length of sections with 6 cat. sl. — 225 m, 5 cat. sl. — 15 m,