RSFSR Climbing Championship

First Ascent Category 1984

Report

on the ascent of Peak Dzhigit 5170 m via the right part of the North face first ascent team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Sports Committee Team Leader: Antipin S. M. Coach: Sereda V. A. Gordeev V. I. Mozharov N. P.

II category

Technical category I 2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge 3. Peak Jigit via the right part of the North face 4. Proposed — 6 cat., first ascent 5. Height difference from the bergschrund 1070 m, total route length 1125 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. 705 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice |

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak "Dzhigit", via the north face — 5B category
4. Route by A.G. Ryabukhin, climbed in 1965
5. Height difference: 998 m, length — 1177 m. Length of sections with 5 category difficulty — 397 m. Average steepness of sections — 60°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Jigit 5170 m, via the north wall
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1230 m,
   • route length — 1650 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1083 m,
   • average steepness of the main part of the route — 67°.

Ascent Passport

Climbing Area: technical Range: Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too Range Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5th category, via the North face Proposed difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: height difference: 1500 m average steepness: 70° length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff., 770 m

Ascent Log

1. Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too, category "7.10.(41)" according to the classification table
2. Peak name: Jigit (5170 m), route name: via the north face (Ryabukhin, 65)
3. Proposed category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1170 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 970 m. Route length: 1292 m. Length of sections: category V — 249 m, category VI — 185 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 72°, entire route — 68°.
6. Pitons left on the route:

Report

on the ascent to Jigit Peak (5170 m) via the north face, made on August 13-20, 1965, by the Chelyabinsk Region team competing in the USSR championship in the category of high-altitude technical routes. Jigit Peak (5170 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Alatoo ridge and closes the Kokbor valley, 60 km south of Przhevalsk town. The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakolka River. A truck can reach the 19 km mark along the Karakol valley. Further on, for 21 km, there is a good horse trail. The last 11-12 km to the tongue of the Jigit Glacier are shepherd's trails. Loads are relayed from the end of the motorable road. Jigit Peak is the second-highest peak in the ridge; the main peak, Karakolsky Peak (5281 m), is located approximately 8-9 km to the west (see the orographic scheme, Fig. 1). Jigit Peak, like all surrounding peaks, is composed of granites, which in many places are enriched with spars. It drops to the north with a wall, against which two buttresses, the northern and northeastern, rest, the latter being bifurcated in the lower part. The northern buttress merges with the wall at a height of approximately 4370 m. Jigit Peak was climbed twice: in 1939, a group led by V.I. Ratsek made the first ascent via the eastern ridge; in 1957, a group of instructors from the "Metallurg" alpine camp (Talgar) led by M.P. Menyailov traversed from Karakolsky Peak to Jigit Peak (descending via the route of the first ascenders). No attempts to climb via other routes had been made until then. Any route to the summit of Jigit Peak is of sporting interest.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.
2. Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of NW wall.
3. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1016 m. Route length: 1165 m. Section lengths:
   • V category of complexity — 205 m
   • VI category of complexity — 200 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Tian-Shan. Terskey Alatau.
3. Ascent Route: Jigit Peak, 5170 m, north wall via bastions on the left part of the cirque.
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Height difference 1180 m
   • Average steepness 73°
   • Length of complex sections 920 m
5. Pitons Driven:
   • Rock 142

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Tien-Shan, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Jigit via bastions of the North face
4. 5B category of difficulty — possibly 3rd ascent
5. Height difference: 1270 m, length — 1400 m Length of the complex section — 1000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (bergschrund — ridge) 70° (4000–5050 m)
6. Pitons left on the route — 0 pcs. Used previously hammered pitons and not removed — 1 pc.
7. Team's travel hours: 32 h and 3 days