Terskey Alatau

Mountain range18,893.26 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the route to Peak Djugit via the north wall, 6th category of difficulty, first ascent made by Vakurin's team in 1983.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge.
  3. Peak Jigit, via the center of the north face's kar.
  4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 1220 m. Total route length 1565 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 715 m.
  6. Pitons hammered in: | Category | Hammered in | Left behind | | :--------- | ----------: | ----------: | | Rock | 132 | 37 |
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Ascent to Jigit Peak via the center of the North wall glacier, category 4.6 difficulty, description of the route and tactical actions of the team.

  1. Technical class
  2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
  3. Jigit peak via the center of the North wall
  4. 6B category of complexity, second ascent
  5. Height difference: 1120 m, length of the wall section of the route to the ridge 1125 m, length of sections 5–6 category of complexity 750 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 77°
  6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: | | 81/21 | 0/0 | 76/25 | 26/4 |
  7. Climbing hours: 29 and days 2.2
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Description of the passage of a 6B category route on the northern wall of Peak Dzigit in Kyrgyz Ala-Too in 1985 by a team led by E. Vinogradsky.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical class
  2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
  3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the north face
  4. 6th category of difficulty
  5. Elevation gain: 1004 m, length 1165 m. Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 526 m. Average steepness of the route — 64° "lower bastion" — 76° "upper bastion" — 71°
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Technical ascent description of 6A category complexity to Jigit peak (5170 m) via the center of the north face.

  1. Climbing type — technical.
  2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhigit, 5170 m, via the center of the N wall (V. Vakurin's route, 83).
  4. Difficulty category — 6B.
  5. Route characteristics — height difference 1120 m, length — 2050 m, length of 6B difficulty sections — 140 m.
  6. Protection:
    • rock anchors: 97
    • ice screws: 66
    • placed nuts: 20.
  7. Total climbing hours — 39.
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Description of the passage of a 6B category route through the center of the Northern wall of Jigit peak in Tian Shan by a team of climbers from Magnitogorsk in 1995.

  1. Class of technical ascents
  2. Tian Shan, Karakol gorge, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
  3. Peak Dzhigit, center of the North wall
  4. Route 6B cat. diff. (Vakurin)
  5. Route length — 1415 m Length of the wall part of the route — 1095 m, length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. — 435 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 95 m
  6. Height difference of the wall part of the route — 970 m
  7. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 62°
  8. Pitons driven: ice, rock placements, bolted, skyhooks
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Report by the CS Locomotive team on their participation in the 1974 USSR Alpinism Championship, detailing their ascent of Pik Dzigit under challenging weather conditions.

REPORT ON THE PARTICIPATION OF THE CS DSO “LOKOMOTIV” TEAM IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1974 SEASON The composition of the team that actually participated in the championship:

  • Manshin Yu.P. — team captain,
  • Volkov R.P. — deputy captain,
  • Repin V.D.,
  • Vodolazhsky V.K.,
  • Svitov V.M. The team was supported by a rescue team and a communications group consisting of:
  • Marfin V.M.,
  • Shmuylovich S.G.,
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Climbing passport for Peak Nirgiz (5180 m) via the center of the north wall, 6B difficulty category, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too.

Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing category — technical
  2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatau
  3. Climbing route with summit height: second ascent via the center of the north face, Jigit Peak (5170 m)
  4. Proposed difficulty category 6B
  5. Climbing characteristics Elevation gain 1370 m (excluding serac icefall) Average slope 72° Length of sections 5–6 km, traverse 900 m
  6. Pitons used: rock 177, for artificial climbing aids 15, ice 27, bolted 0
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Ascent to Jigit Peak (5170 m) via the center of the northern wall, category of complexity 6, Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.

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Ascent Log

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Area of ascent: Tian Shan mountain range, Karakol gorge, Terskey Alatau ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Jigit 5170 m via the center of the North face.
  4. Category of difficulty — 6.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1230 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1110 m, average steepness — 76°.
  6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds — rock — 81; ice — 17; screw anchors — none; placements — 89.
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A detailed description of a technical ascent of Jigit Peak (5170 m) via the center of the North face in Tian Shan, with a thorough analysis of the route and its challenges.

Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical.
  2. Climbing area: Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Karakol valley.
  3. Climbing object: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
  4. Difficulty category: VI (I. Slesov's route).
  5. Elevation gain: 1380 m. Route length: 1695 m (including 250 m ridge). Length of sections with difficulty category 5-6: 1260 m. Average slope: 73° (3790–5115). Sections with difficulty category 6: 85° (3970–4420, 4630–4925).
  6. Number of pitons:
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Ascent of Pik Limit (5170 m) via the center of the North face, rated 6B, completed by the team led by International Master of Sports Shevchenko A.V. in 1987.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — Technical.
  2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
  4. Complexity category — 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: route length 970 m from the bergschrund, height difference to the ridge — 850 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 520 m, average steepness — 67°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 69 (8); chocks — 57 (5); ice — 40 (0).
  7. Team's travel hours: 21 hours; 1.5 days.
  8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a snowy ridge.
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