ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol region.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: ascent to Peak Jigit via the western ridge (5170 m).
4. Ascent description: altitude difference 1170 m, average steepness — 34°, route length — 2650 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 19, ice — 8, bolted — (dash).
6. Total climbing hours — 13.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
   • 1st — western ridge, in a "Pamirka" tent.
   • 2nd — on a plateau, in a "Pamirka" tent.
8. Team name: group of climbers from Rostov-on-Don consisting of: leader Shandulin V.I., participants: Bronnikov A.S., Pashchenko V.V., Gazarbyekyan A.G., Chuprina A.S., Iskhakov A.K.
9. Team coach: Master of Sports of International Class Artsishevsky Yuri Yurievich.
10. Dates of departure and return on the route: July 18, 1975 — July 20, 1975.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE AND ITS ASSESSMENT

Undoubtedly, anyone who ends up in the Karakol region, upon seeing Peak Jigit, is unlikely to remain indifferent. The peak is beautiful with that harsh, captivating beauty that cannot leave an alpinist's heart calm and that gives birth to a cherished desire deep in the human soul — to step on the highest point of this grandeur.

From our base camp, located at the foot of Peak Khr. Boteva, a commanding view of the formidable northern wall opens up. Several extremely complex routes have been laid here, the passage of which requires climbers to have the highest mastery and fortitude. Who knows, maybe in the future we will have the honor to storm this giant directly through the center, but for now, our goal is more modest — the Western ridge of the peak, leading to the saddle between Peaks Razdelny and Jigit. From below, this saddle is clearly visible; in reality, when you reach it, you find yourself on a large plateau of the peak, located at an altitude of 4900–4950 m. From the plateau, the ascent to the main ridge leading to the summit begins.

Taking into account the meteorological characteristics of the region and the remoteness of the base camp, we plan to complete the route in three days.

July 18, 1953 — Day one. 9:00 AM. The weather is not pleasant, cloudy, damp, with occasional light snowfall. A group of 6 people, taking necessary gear and provisions for three days, left the base camp. The task for the first day:

• to reach the Karakol valley through On-Tor pass;
• to pass the "Fence";
• to act according to circumstances thereafter, as it is unclear what the weather will be like.

The road to Jigit. We have had to ascend this barely discernible trail to the formidable giant more than once. And each time, looking at its walls, it's hard to hide the excitement in one's soul, not to express admiration. Jigit looms over you, its walls rise straight up, and you seem insignificantly small in comparison. And yet, man has conquered you, a peak of inaccessibility. You are intimidating! Meter by meter, step by step, we move towards the pass. No, no, and someone will stop and again, raising their head, gaze at this formidable creation of nature.

The snow is heavy; we often sink into the streams formed under the snow and get quite wet. We reached the pass at 12:40 PM. Our view opened up to the western ridge with a long "fence" starting from a snow knife below the pass on the other side of the closed glacier. The weather remains gloomy, somehow dark, and silent. It does not inspire confidence.

Crossing the glacier diagonally, we reach the start of the route — a snow knife steeply ascending upwards. The weather worsens; snow starts falling, visibility drops sharply. We take turns cutting steps, moving slowly. The steepness of the knife is 35–40°, its length is 200 m. We reach the "fence", which has a small altitude gain and leads to a serac hanging directly from the saddle. On the northern side of the ridge, there are large cornices and steep snow-ice slopes. The southern side is cut by numerous couloirs and collapsed rocks. Here is chaos, a jumble of stones lying haphazardly. The ridge itself is wide, allowing for bivouacs, but we continue. The snow continues, but has become denser, and the settled silence is worrisome. From the exit of the snow knife — 700 m of straightforward travel with a small altitude gain. Here are the first sections requiring increased caution: a steep ascent — snow — 45° — 1 rope length, with a slight traverse to the right and an exit onto rocks. The ridge becomes narrow; the rocks are of moderate difficulty, with 5–6 m walls but good holds. The difficulty stems from the prevailing conditions. A considerable amount of snow has fallen, significantly complicating movement. Each rope team works independently. First team: Shandulin and Bronnikov. Second team: Chuprina, Gazarbyekyan. Third team: Pashchenko, Iskhakov. The climbers have completed many ascents in this area; their movements show confidence and clarity; complex sections are traversed competently with reliable belays. Before a small dip in the ridge on a steep but flat-topped gendarme, we set up the first control cairn. After the dip, the ridge ascends, approaching closely to the serac. Two rope lengths of rock climbing — and we emerge onto the left wing of the serac. Steep ascent — 35°. The fresh fallen snow does not hold, but beneath this layer, a denser layer of firn allows for a cautious and quick ascent for the entire group to the bergschrund. It is substantially filled with snow, and the line of potential break-off is not clearly visible. The weather has deteriorated completely. A strong wind has created an unimaginable whirlwind of snowflakes. And before us lies one of the most challenging sections. To ascend to our couloir, we need to cross an ice couloir (10 m) and reach the base of the gendarme "Tower", where we plan to set up a bivouac. With piton belays, cutting steps, we cross the couloir. We work cohesively, quickly; everyone understands that lingering here is not an option — the newly fallen snow is about to start falling from above. It's hard to move; steps are quickly filled with snow, and those following have to search and clear them. The second rope team works on the gendarme, passing its 40-meter wall with a large sloping shelf in the middle with piton belays. We reached the gendarme at 5:20 PM. To set up a bivouac, we had to work hard. We partially cut down an ice crest and partially dug into its left side. The tent fit on the carved-out platform but was very cramped, with no room to step aside: to the right — an ice couloir, to the left — sheer walls dropping to the Western Jigit glacier. It's tough for six people in the tent, but we don't complain — we knew what we were getting into. Fatigue from the significant effort is evident; we are thirsty. We spend a long time melting snow, quenching our thirst, and sharing impressions of the "fun day". Still, it's better in the tent than outside. The northern piercing wind rages, dispersing stinging snow. Inside the tent, the primus stove roars; it's damp but warm. It's hard to make plans for the next day — the further ridge represents the greatest difficulty and will require our all. We go to sleep, sharing the limited space, though there's almost none.

The wind battered the tent all night, but by morning, it subsided. Day two. In the morning, it wasn't easy to remember that today was Saturday — a day off. In Rostov, people go swimming in the Don, as it's the height of summer. But before our eyes is a completely different picture, so unlike summer. You just have to stick your head out of the tent, and you'll immediately see a "scorching" landscape:

• an icy desert;
• yawning chasms;
• formidable walls;
• our path forward — straight up — leads to the majestic peak; it's waiting for us.

No, the beach will wait; we'll still get to sunbathe and reminisce about what was, but now — no distractions and no relaxation; all attention is on the ridge; a tough struggle lies ahead. And what about the weather? The sky has clearings; it's hard to predict, but it's also cold, giving hope for improvement.

We have a light breakfast, drink tea, and one by one crawl out of the tent, rubbing numb limbs, and continue preparations. Now, onward!

7:30 AM. The first rope team heads out to process the route. It's hard to move; the frost has made the fallen snow as loose as sand.