First Ascent Report
November 7, 2009
To the summit of GTO South (4245 m) in the Auter gorge, Karakol area, Terskey Alatau. The route follows the northwest wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty.
The first ascent was made by a group consisting of:
- Leader: Rumyantseva N.A., CMS, "Burevestnik", Voronezh
- Dubrovskikh V.V., 2nd sports category, Beloyarsk
- Dorokhov B.F., 1st sports category, Voronezh
- Ogandzhanyan Yu.A., 1st sports category, Voronezh
- Lyubavin S.E., 2nd sports category, Voronezh
394043, Voronezh, Perevertkina st., 36, apt. 103 Rumyantseva N.A.
Description of the First Ascent Route
Description of the first ascent route to the summit of GTO South via the center of the northwest wall. Approximately 4A category of difficulty.
The summit of GTO South is located in the Gastello glacier cirque in the Auter gorge of the Terskey Alatau range, between the summits:
- Gastello Peak to the west,
- GERO to the east,
- GTO North to the north.
From the overnight camps on the "ram's foreheads" under the Gastello glacier (3 hours from the Ikichat meadow, where the Ala-Too base camp is located), move along the right side: first along the moraine, then along the glacier towards the Prizivnikov Pass. In the upper part, cross the glacier towards the "rusty wall" and three rock islands under the northwest wall of GTO South in its central part.
Section R0–R1
Overcome the bergschrund and ascend the snowy slope into the couloir to the right of the central rock island under the northwest wall. From the bergschrund to the rock islands is about 120 m. Then ascend the couloir leftwards for 40 m and exit onto the counterfort that abuts the wall. Two noticeable black spots remain on the wall above to the right. Along the counterfort ridge for 100 m – to a 3–4-meter wall at the rise of the ridge crest. It is passed on the left (piton belay) with an exit onto the flattening ridge crest under the wall. A control cairn is set up here.
Section R1–R2
From the control cairn, along a wide inclined ledge upwards to the right for 10 m to a wide crack going upwards to the left. The beginning of the crack is blocked by an overhanging stone plug. Bypassing it on the right, ascend the crack for 45 m (pitons) to a wide inclined chimney that leads to the summit. Be cautious of loose rocks in the chimney.
Section R2–R3
Along the chimney for 40 m of difficult climbing (pitons) with an exit onto a ledge to the right of the chimney. The rocks are snow-covered and coated with ice. From the ledge, another 30 m of difficult climbing (pitons) to a rock face to the right of the chimney. The whole group can assemble here.
Section R3–R4
From the rock face, move along the chimney for 20–25 m. The chimney is filled with ice. Moving along the chimney (pitons), exit onto simple rocks and ledges, and ascend upwards into a snowy cirque. From the rock face to the cirque is 40–45 m.
Section R4–R5
From the cirque, upwards along the snow-ice slope for 30 m with an exit onto a snowy ridge and along it for 120 m to the summit.
The ascent from the foot of the wall to the summit takes 7 hours.
The descent to the Gastello glacier via the GTO North summit along a 2A category route takes 1.5–2 hours.
Then descend along the glacier and moraines to the overnight camps.
The ascent was made in good weather.
17 rock pitons were hammered on the route.
Initially, the route was approximately assessed as 3B category. However, after the ascent, the group evaluated it as 4A category. The key, most challenging section of the route is R1–R4, with technically and psychologically difficult climbing.
Leader: N.A. Rumyantseva
GTO North (4017) GTO South (4245 m)
- — visible ascent path
- ........ invisible ascent path
- — descent path (2A category)
- ▲ control cairns
Leader: N.A. Rumyantseva
Ala-Too BC Oyuntor river Telets river Uzlovoy peak 3966 Krasnodona peak Mendeleevets Auter river Agdzhayalo river GTO South peak Students peak 4202 GERa peak Gastello peak Telets peak 4194 Gastello peak 4001 Gastello peak 4240 Prizivnikov Pass 4002 Auter peak 4382 Auter Pass Tulenina peak Ashuter Pass Yu. Auter peak Saakadze Pass Issyk-Kul feathers Trezubets peak Greek Patriots peak Matrosova peak Yu. Fuchik peak 800 Years of Moscow peak Tolyatti peak
- — path of approach from BC, ascent, descent, and return
- overnight camps.
Leader: N.A. Rumyantseva
