Passport

I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:

Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face

S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.

Passport

1. Class: winter
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
4. Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
5. Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

I. Technical Class

2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
3. Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
4. Difficulty category 6B
5. Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
6. Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
7. Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
8. Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
9. Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Object — Peak Svobodnaya Korea 4. Category of difficulty — 6B, KTM 7.4.144 5. Height difference — 580 m, route length — 890 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 480 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, steepness of the wall part of the route — 81.6° (4330–4580 m). 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
   • winter
2. Region
   • Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Object
   • Pik Svobodnaya Korea.
4. Category of difficulty
   • 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)
5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.

85 I­20­MII
p. Manas 4307 m

Ascent Passport

to p. Medik 4437 m. First ascent I. Climbing class — combined 2. Ascent region — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. Medik, height 4437 m along the ridge, ridge route 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m (from the upper plateau of l. Golubina), length of sections III cat. diff. — 160 m, the rest — II cat. diff., average steepness — 42° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 8 (0); ice — 8 (0) 7. Number of walking hours — 10

General Information.

The "Pastukhova" peak is located in the Alamudun ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, in the Shch. Irotsenko glacier basin. To the northwest lies the "Kyrgyzstan" peak (4860 m), and to the east - the "Svobody" peak. To the northeast, a step-like rock-ice counterfort departs. The summit is a snow-ice dome. To the southwest, a complex rocky counterfort departs. The lower slopes are gentle in the upper part and steep rocky slopes in the lower part. The peak was first ascended by two groups in 1958.

• A group led by Master of Sports Romanov A.V. made the ascent via the eastern ridge.
• A group led by Eropunov A. made a traverse of the peak, ascending via the northeast counterfort and descending via the eastern ridge.

Route Description.

Day 1: From the base camp, located near Lake Irotsenko, ascend up the moraine and then along the Yukh. Irotsenko glacier. The glacier is calm at the intersection point, but then has crevasses. After about 1 hour of walking on the glacier, we approach a snow-ice slope leading to the eastern ridge of the peak.

of medium difficulty. The rocks lead to a narrow ridge "п­Л­ЛЕ", about 100 m long. The section is very tense, requiring careful belaying through pitons and ledges, the latter needing to be thoroughly tested. The last part of the section (15 m) is overcome by sitting astride. The ridge leads to the 1st gendarme. Next is a small depression in the ridge. A rocky bridge leads to the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed along a scree shelf on the left (60 m). The shelf leads to the right side of the ridge and ends abruptly. Then, we traverse the gendarme to the right along complex rocks into a large internal angle. This is one of the key sections of the route. Its length is about 50 m. The section requires thorough piton belaying. The rocks lead to a small shelf where all participants can gather. From the shelf, we ascend along an internal angle (70°–40 m). The rocks are complex, requiring piton belaying. The angle leads to the shoulder of the gendarme, the upper part of which is bypassed on the right along rocks of medium difficulty. Next comes a very jagged, sharp ridge — 40 m. The section requires careful belaying. The ridge leads to a sheer wall 30 m. A "sitting" descent is organized. From the bridge, we ascend along a rocky wall 15 m, 50° and descend a little below the ridge. Here, on a small shelf, a bivouac is organized. The journey from the 1st bivouac to the 2nd takes 11 hours. Day III: from the bivouac site, a small descent along rocks leads to a steep 60° rocky ascent of the ridge. The first 80 m of the ascent are traversed along scree shelves, leading to a rocky wall. The wall begins with rocks resembling lake ice (40 m — 45), which are relatively easy to traverse. Then, it is necessary to move traverse to the right onto the ridge along a narrow rocky shelf with thorough piton belaying. We are on the right side of the ridge.