General Information.

The "Pastukhova" peak is located in the Alamudun ridge of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, in the Shch. Irotsenko glacier basin.

To the northwest lies the "Kyrgyzstan" peak (4860 m), and to the east - the "Svobody" peak.

To the northeast, a step-like rock-ice counterfort departs. The summit is a snow-ice dome. To the southwest, a complex rocky counterfort departs.

The lower slopes are gentle in the upper part and steep rocky slopes in the lower part.

The peak was first ascended by two groups in 1958.

  • A group led by Master of Sports Romanov A.V. made the ascent via the eastern ridge.
  • A group led by Eropunov A. made a traverse of the peak, ascending via the northeast counterfort and descending via the eastern ridge.

Route Description.

Day 1: From the base camp, located near Lake Irotsenko, ascend up the moraine and then along the Yukh. Irotsenko glacier. The glacier is calm at the intersection point, but then has crevasses. After about 1 hour of walking on the glacier, we approach a snow-ice slope leading to the eastern ridge of the peak.

At the beginning, the ridge is not steep (up to 30°), but then the steepness increases (up to 50°).

The slope is about 400 m long and is traversed with alternating belays.

After passing the slope, we reach a saddle between a gendarme (east) and a rocky ridge (west) that becomes steeper.

The first night's bivouac is organized on the saddle.

The ascent to the saddle took the group about 5 hours.

A control cairn is left at the bivouac site.

Day 2: The ascent along the ridge begins with overcoming a 2-meter sheer wall. The rocks are smooth. Further along the ridge, the path involves passing small gendarmes (2-5 m) and sharp sections of the rocky ridge. Belays are organized using rock projections. This character of the path continues for about 300 m and ends with a 20-meter wall, dropping down to a snowy saddle. A "sitting" rappel is organized. From the saddle, we ascend again along the rocks.

Sources

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