Ascent Passport
to p. Medik 4437 m. First ascent I. Climbing class — combined
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Ascent region — Kyrgyz ridge, Golubina lake area
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Summit p. Medik, height 4437 m along the ridge, ridge route
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Proposed category of difficulty — 2B
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Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m (from the upper plateau of l. Golubina), length of sections III cat. diff. — 160 m, the rest — II cat. diff., average steepness — 42°
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Pitons hammered: rock — 8 (0); ice — 8 (0)
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Number of walking hours — 10
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Number of overnight stays — none
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Leader — Getman I.S. Master of Sports
Participants: Korenchenko S.V. 2nd sports rank, Pyshnenko S.I. 2nd sports rank, Lapin S.A. 2nd sports rank, Sudakova T.A. 2nd sports rank, Kazakova A.A. 2nd sports rank. Team coach — Belousov E.B., Candidate Master of Sports. Date of departure and return — August 5, 1987. Organization — AUSE "Ala-Archa". Leaving the bivouac located near the I MC, on the left side of l. Golubina, approach the start of the route (1.5 hours). Section R0–R1 — snow slope with a steepness of 30–35°. R1–R2: slope steepness increases to 45°. Passage with alternate insurance through an ice axe between two rocky islands — large and small. Ascent to the rocks (rancle). Section R2–R3: destroyed rocks of medium difficulty are traversed with alternate insurance travelling left 100 m with 6 pitons — exit to the isthmus. From the start of the route 2.5 hours. Section R3–R4 is a destroyed ridge II cat. diff. — traversed with alternate insurance. I and II gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Immediately after the II gendarme, exit to the ridge and 20-meter descent into the couloir in front of the wall. Then turn right and up the couloir to the main ledge. Along the ledge (section R4–R5) — exit to the summit.
Descent along the 103 ridge 1B cat. diff., exit to the snow-ice shoulder, passage to the north with an approach to the rocks and descent to l. Golubina.
Descent is possible without entering the snow-ice plateau, but immediately from the summit to the left and then down the slope.
When ascending on section I–2, ice is possible — have crampons. Rocks of the ridge and the pre-summit ledge are heavily destroyed — be careful with rocks.