PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via the right bastion of the S wall
4. Proposed — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: | elevation gain | 670 m | | :--------------------------------------- | :---------- | | length | 1270 m | | length of section R5–R6 6 category | 555 m |

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — winter.
2. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the left part of the north face.
4. Category — 6B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the ridge — 530 m, to the summit — 650 m; distance: to the ridge — 680 m, to the summit about 1000 m; distance of 6th category sections — 300 m, 5th category — 380 m; average slope to the ridge — 65°;

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details

КАЗАХСКИЙ РЕСПУБЛИКАНСКИЙ СОВЕТ ДСО «СПАРТАК»

Отчёт о восхождении на пик Свободной Кореи по северной стене, заявленном на первенство СССР по альпинизму в классе технически сложных восхождений

г. Алма-Ата 1966 г. Приятная метеосводка — на ближайшее время, начиная с 3 августа, ожидается хорошая устойчивая погода. День выхода штурмовой группы и группы наблюдателей был назначен на 3 августа 1966 г.

Тактический план восхождения

Следует отметить, что ни для одного члена нашей группы северная стена Свободной Кореи не была чем-то совершенно неизвестным. Борис Студенин, Геннадий Федотов и Геннадий Киреев участвовали в прохождении стены в 1961 году примерно по пути, незадолго до этого проложенному группой ЦС ДСО «Буревестник» под руководством Л. В. Мышляева. Остальные участники нашего сбора внимательно присматривались к вершине как к возможному объекту восхождений в 1963 и в 1965 г. во время пребывания в этом же районе.

KIEV CITY COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK SVOBODNAYA KOREYA VIA THE NORTH FACE Kiev, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru

List of participants

1. 1961 "Burevestnik" led by L. Myshliaev
2. 1966 Kazakhstan led by B. Studenin

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent category
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, via N wall, W ridge, 4740 m
4. A. Kustovsky's route, 6A category; second ascent, first winter ascent
5. Route height difference 640 m
6. Total route length 924 m, including 625 m of wall section
7. Length of 6th category sections 204 m
8. Average route slope 63°

Report

On the ascent of Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" via the center of the North Face, submitted for the USSR Climbing Championship in the 1969 season Team from the Krasnoyarsk City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports July 1969 Team Captain (V. Bezzubkin) ROUTES OF ASCENT:

1. 1961 – route by L. Myshlyaev
2. 1966 – route by B. Studenin
3. 1969 – route by V. Bezzubkin

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the center of the North face, combined
4. Complexity category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m length of sections with 5B–6 complexity category — 305 m average steepness — 62.5°
6. Pitons driven:

TO THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

Report

On the ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea via Route 6B cat. diff.

The route leads directly to the summit ridge, 80 m from the cairn, in a beautiful straight line. The lower part of the route is steep ice, the middle section is a sheer rocky wall with ice formations, and the upper part is a very steep ice-rock ridge. The route took first place in the 1969 USSR championship and is classified as a 6B category difficulty route.

III. Preparation for the Ascent

The team first became familiar with the climbing conditions in the area in 1967. The harsh climate and technical difficulty of the routes required serious preparation. The general physical training program included: