Central Tian Shan
Route Description: В гребню
The first ascent to the summit of Nastukhova via the Eastern ridge, route category 4B, is combined, ridge-climbing, requiring good preparation of climbers.
has cornices hanging to the north. In the upper part, the ridge has two ascents. The first one is easy to pass. The second one is a climb to the dome of the summit — an ice slope, (left side of the ridge by the route) 50 m long, 50° steep. On the slope, you need to:
- move left,
- cut through the cornice on the southern ridge,
- reach a simple slope, which after 15–20 m leads to the summit. The summit is a snowy dome with rock outcrops on the southwest side, where a tur is built. Descent from the summit follows the ascent route down to the lowering in the ridge (a hollow) with convenient platforms. Here, an overnight stay is organized. Further from the overnight stay, you need to:
Route Description: с л. Проценко, траверс
Description of the route to Pastukhov peak and the ridge to Alamedin teeth.
Peak Pastukhova and the ridge to the Alamedin Teeth.
Route Description: с л. Проценко, траверс
A route to the summit of Milach-tcirsa in the Central Caucasus, a technically challenging and beautiful path for experienced mountaineers.
Milactyrosa
Route Description: с л. Проценко, траверс
Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key points, and preparation specifics.
Route Description: с л. Проценко, траверс
Description of the route to the summit of the mountain, including historical data and technical information about the 1921 ascent.
1321. 300. 1921
Route Description: С гребню
Route along the northern ridge of Ratzek Peak in Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, first ascent, 2-4 cat. of diff., 1200 m, 4 hours of climbing.
I.
The route is rock.
2. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge, KSP of Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
3. Peak Ratsek along the ridge from the north.
4. First ascent.
5. Height difference: 440 m, route length: 1200 m.
section
- 4 cat. diff. — 20 m.
- 3 cat. diff. — 200 m.
- 2 cat. diff. — 200 m.
Route Description: С гребню
A description of the ascent route with a detailed analysis of the stages and an indication of the lengths and duration of individual sections.
200 m 30′
- R2 200 m 30′
- R3 200 m 45′
100 m
- R6 20 m 45′
200 m
- R5 40 m 50′
200 m
- R4 40 m 10′
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the route to Peak Ratzek via the Northwest Ridge (2B), including details on passage and necessary equipment.
1.9 Peak Ratseka via the Northwest Ridge, 2B
Name in the classifier: "via the NW ridge" Hardware requirements:
- Crampons
- Set of stoppers
- Rock pitons
- 4-6 quickdraws
- 14-16 carabiners
- 3-4 slings Maximum height: 3930 m
Route Description: Ю гребню
Report on the ascent of a team of climbers to Ratzek Peak (3900 m) via the southern ridge (category 2A complexity) in the Kyrgyz range of Tian Shan in 2012.
Report
On the ascent of Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via the south ridge (2A category of difficulty approximately)
Team leader: Akimov V.V. Participants:
- Zobenko A.A.
- Braun A.A.
- Lekomtsev M.A. Bishkek 2012
Climbing Passport.
- Climbing area: Tian-Shan.
- Kyrgyz range.
- Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via S ridge.
Route Description: левому кф. С стены
Description of the first ascent of the peak "Svobodnaya Korea" (4740 m) via the left counterfort of the northern wall, category 6B difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
I. Climbing category
- technical
- Climbing area
- Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- Ascent route indicating the summit and its height
- Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" via the left counterfort of the northern wall, 6B cat. diff. (first ascent) 4740 m
- Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1082 m average steepness — 78°