Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021

Altitude Class

Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021

Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu"

Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude Class

2023

ASCENT REPORT

on the ascent to the peak of Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the center of the Southwest wall 6B category of difficulty (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai and Novosibirsk Oblast. Period: 01.08.2023 – 07.08.2023

1. High-altitude and technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, from the south (China).
3. Peak Voennykh Topografov, 6873 m, via the south ridge (first ascent).
4. Cat. diff.: 5B–6A (approximately)
5. Height difference: ascent 4400–6873 m — 2473 m, descent 6873–4600 m — 2273 m. Total length — ascent — 4930 m (fixed ropes — 4130 m on ascent). Length of sections with 5–5+(6) cat. diff. — approximately 1340 m, 4 cat. diff. — approximately 1720 m, horizontal sections of the ridge — 1620 m. Average slope of the route — 40°, above the horizontal part of the ridge — 50–55°,

Pas­port of as­cent to Jel Teger­men peak 4570 m.

1. Tian-Shan, Cen­tral part of At-Ba­shi range, Bos­kur­bu tract. Ab­sent in clas­si­fi­ca­tor.
2. Jel Teger­men — 4570 m. Via West­ern couloir and then along South­ern ridge.
3. Pro­posed 3B cat. dif. First as­cent.
4. Com­bined route
5. Height dif­fer­ence — 520 m ac­cord­ing to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sec­tions:

• 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 de­grees
• 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 de­grees

REPORT

On the First Ascent of Chongtash East Peak (4553 m)

from the north, 2B category of difficulty

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak name: Chongtash East (4553 m, N 40°54.994′, E 74°5.810′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: "through the Gates", from the north
4. Category of difficulty: proposed 2B
5. Route nature: snow-ice
6. Route elevation gain: 900 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 1600 m. Average slope: 30°. Six rope lengths of firn/ice up to 50°, AI1–2.

Report

On the First Ascent of Kremen Peak (4351 m)

via the Western Ridge, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak Name: Kremen (4351 m, N 40°54.604′, E 74°39.295′ (WGS 84))
3. Route Name: via the Western Ridge
4. Category of Difficulty: proposed 4A
5. Route Type: rock climbing
6. Route Elevation Gain: 540 m (GPS reading). Route Length: 700 m. Average Steepness: 51°. Climbing difficulty mainly III–IV, crux at the 2nd rope VI–/VI (UIAA)

Report

On the First Ascent of Ak-Jaman Peak (4490 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A/4B

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Inner Tien Shan, Jamantau Ridge
2. Peak name: Ak-Jaman (4490 m, № 40°54.413′, 74°49.720′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: via the North-Eastern wall
4. Route difficulty category: proposed 4A/4B
5. Route type: ice climb
6. Route elevation gain: 490 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 660 m. Average slope: 50°. 11 ice pitches up to 70°, Al2–Al3.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR mountaineering championship 1974. Ascent class I - High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, North Inylchek glacier 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — northwest wall of Peak Przhevalsky, 6400 m. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1835 m, average steepness 70°, length of difficult sections 832 m 5. Pitons used: rock 182 ice 17, bolted 2 6. Number of climbing hours — 90

Ascent Log

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge, Bayankol valley, 7.17.06
2. Peak Marmor Wall (6350 m) via the right western counterfort of the Northwest ridge.
3. Category 5A, second ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 2650 m Route length: 4600 m Length of Category V sections — 930 m. Average slope
   • Main part of the route 40° (4100 m – 6100 m)

Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Meridionalny Ridge.
2. Peak Marmorная стена (6350 m), via the right Western counterfort of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 5A (third ascent).
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 2650 m; route length — 4600 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty: 900 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 40° (4200 m – 6100 m); — whole route — 37° (3700 m – 6350 m).
6. Pitons left on the route: 4; including "drills": 1. Pitons used on the route: 10; including "drills": 8.