1. Kyrgyzsky Range, Aksay gorge, section 7.4
2. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, via the couloir on the S wall
3. Difficulty category — 5B
4. Route character — snow and ice
5. Route height difference — 850 m Route length — 1050 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 600 m Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 70°
• entire route — 60°

6. Pitons left on the route: total 5

148

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1991

WINTER CLASS

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) via the North wall couloir, category 5B (Barber's route) by the team from the Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee from February 26 to 27, 1991. Team captain — Master of Sports of the USSR Ivanov Valery Anatolyevich Team coach — Master of Sports of the USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich

Addresses

Physical Culture and Sports Committee of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — winter.
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge (O. Grigoryev, 97).
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the N wall couloir (Barbera).
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the summit — 680 m. length: about 800 m. length of 6th category sections — 80 m, 5th category — 650 m. average steepness to the ridge — 60°

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, 7.4.
2. Peak — Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, left of the central "triangle" and via the central couloir of the S wall
3. Category of difficulty — 5B, variation
4. Route character — combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 750 m, route length — 985 m, length of 6th category sections — 15 m, 5th category — 765 m, average steepness of the route — 64° Pitons left on the route: total — 0. Pitons used on the route:
   • stationary pitons — 0, including ITO — 0; rock hooks — 12; stoppers — 16; ice screws — 65

1. Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai tract, section 7.4.
2. Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, 4740 m via the couloir of the northern wall, G. Barber
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Ice-snow route
5. Elevation gain of the route — 700 m Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 600 m. Average steepness:

• Main part of the route — 50°
• Entire route — 45°

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

PASSPORT

1. Winter class.
2. Tian-Shan, Ak-Sai valley.
3. p. S. Korea 4740 via the gully left of the "triangle" from the S side. 4.55 cat. of difficulty, 2nd ascent of Barber's route.
4. Height difference — 740 m, length — 920 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 560 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58° (4000–4740 m). Of which:

• 6 cat. of difficulty — 90° (3342–3402 m).

6. Number of pitons: Ice screws — 69 pcs. Climbing hours — 11.5 hours and days — 1 day.
7. No overnight stays.

Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Aksai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the right part of the northern wall
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference 970 m, length — 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route — 1080 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 560 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 38, bolt — 0, chocks — 12/0, ice screws — 53/0
7. Climbing days (not including descent) — 1, hours — 17
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — one, on descent, on a gentle scree ridge
9. Leader — Artamonov Alexey Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports

Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
4. Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 285 m.

MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents

Report

Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013

Passport of the ascent

1. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.