Passport
I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock pitons | Bolt pitons | Nuts | Ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 178 | 5 | 86 | 48 |
- Team's climbing hours: 64 hours and 5 days.
- Overnight stops: 1st-2nd-3rd in a tent on a ledge under the "tv", 4th sitting in hammocks in an inner corner, iced over.
- Leader: Bogolyubov Vladimir Vladimirovich Team members:
- Balykin Vladimir Vladimirovich CMS
- Lavrenchenkov Sergey Stanislavovich CMS
- Bystrov Sergey Pavlovich MS
- Donskoy Konstantin Dmitrievich MS
- Ganzhurov Nikita Gavrilovich CMS
- Coach: Idalevich Vladimir Fadeevich
- Route entry: August 3, 1988 Summit August 7, 1988 Return August 8, 1988
- Shvab's route 5B category of difficulty, 1982.
- Studenin's route 5B category of difficulty, 1966.
- Kustovsky's route 5B category of difficulty, 1969.
- Semiletkin's route 6B category of difficulty, 1988.
- Popenko's route 6B category of difficulty, 1975.
- Bezzubkin's route 5B category of difficulty, 1969.
- Myshlyaev's route 5B category of difficulty, 1961.
- Bagaev's route n.k.l. category of difficulty, 1974.
- Barber's route 5B category of difficulty, 1976.
- Andreev's route 5A category of difficulty, 1959.
- Lowe's route 5A category of difficulty, 1976.
Helios-44, F=58 mm. Distance about 4 km. Height — 3750 m.
PROFILE OF THE WALL FROM THE RIGHT. July 24, 1988, 16:00. Granite-2, F = 80. Distance about 4 km. Shooting point #1. Height — 3700 m.
| Ice screws | Bolt pitons | Rock pitons | Nuts | Description/Time | Section |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12 | - | - | 4100 m | R0 80 m 60°– | |
| 5 | - | - | - | R1 40 m 45° IV+ | |
| 3 | - | 6 | - | traverse right | R2 20 m 45° IV |
| - | - | 10 | 3 | R3 40 m 70° | |
| 12 | - | - | - | R4 80 m 50° IV+ | |
| - | - | 12 | 2 | traverse left | R5 40 m 60°+ |
| - | 14 | 2 | 4 | 14:00 | R6 40 m 80°+ |
| - | - | 9 | 2 | R7 40 m 60° | |
| - | - | 22 | 6 | R8 30 m 80° VI A3 | |
| - | - | 22 | 6 | R9 15 m 85° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 14/14 | 6/6 | R10 2 m 180° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 4/4 | 2/2 | R11 15 m 70° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 10 | 2 | R12 30 m 75° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 15 | 9 | R13 20 m 60° U A3 | |
| - | - | 15 | 9 | 13:00 | R14 20 m 90° A4 EI |
| - | - | 6 | 4 | R15 1.5 m VI A4 180° | |
| - | - | 8 | 7 | R16 25 m 90° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 7 | 9 | R17 25 m 85° VI A4 | |
| - | - | 2 | 2 | R18 0.5 m 95° VI A4 | |
| - | 1 | - | 4 | 13:00 | R19 20 m 80° VI A2 E2 |
| - | - | 2 | 6 | R20 20 m 90° VI A4 E3 | |
| - | - | 6 | 8 | R21 30 m 90°+ | |
| - | - | 2 | 5 | R22 10 m 90°+ | |
| - | - | 2 | 2 | R23 200 m 60°– | |
| 16 | - | - | - | 2 hours | R24 240 m III |
Route description by sections.
- R4–R5. Inner corner, iced over, rock character — "ram's foreheads", unreliable pitons in shallow cracks.
- R6–R7. Inner corner turning into an overhanging chimney. There are convenient holds for climbing, various cracks for pitons.
- R8–R9. Wall 80°, consists of detached slabs 1-20 cm thick. There are holds, cracks, but climbing is risky due to loose rocks.
- R9–R10. Monolithic inner corner with a series of cracks for pitons and nuts.
- R10–R11. Cornice with a 2 m overhang, there are cracks for pitons and nuts. Control tower.
- R11–R12. Inner corner, almost no holds. Crack is partially blind.
- R12–R13. Wall with small, downward-facing holds. There are cracks for pitons and small nuts.
- R13–R14. Inner corner, iced over, can be used to place ice screws for belay. Last place for overnight stay and ice for drinking.
- R14–R15. Vertical monolithic wall without holds or relief.
- R15–R16. Cornice, 1.5 m overhang. Traverse from right to left. A bolt was driven for belay.
- R16–R17. Inner corner. Beginning of a series of inner corners leading to the edge. Relief appears.
- R17–R18. Monolithic inner corner, ends in an overhang.
- R18–R19. Overhang 0.5 m. To pass, a previously driven bolt was used.
- R19–R20. Inner corner, a bolt was driven for passage, then small "stopper" nuts can be used.
- R20–R21. Long inner corner leading to the edge of the ice gully. At the beginning, two bolts were driven for belay and passage. Various cracks for pitons and nuts appear.
- R21–R22. Continuation of the inner corner, cracks turn into slots, it becomes possible to climb freely. The upper part of the corner and the wall before the exit are heavily destroyed, rockfall hazard.
Leads in pairs used cliffhangers and talus to pass sections R8–R13 and R15–R22. On section R13, the lead climber passed about 15 m with free climbing.
For the first belay, a double rope was used, 11 mm "ELITA" and 11 mm "ROZOLSHI", as well as a "Bukashka-3" shock absorber and LTI. For belay, a petal and a "Shtikht" washer were used.
All other participants moved on fixed ropes with top-rope belay, using two "Jumars".
Sections R0–R6 are exposed to the sun. Passage is recommended early in the morning or at night.
Section R2–R4. First approach to the inner corner along the ledge. Helios-44, F=58. Distance 20 m, # I, height 4215 m.
The wall upwards from point #2. Route from the "tv". Helios-44, F=58. Dark line. "Big cornice" on Yu. Popenko's route 6B category of difficulty.