Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
4. 6B complexity category.

6. Used pitons: rock — 58/4+16", drill — 12/4+8", ice — 51/0, закладок — 74. "Use of previously driven pitons".
7. Team's travel time: 49 hours and 4 days.
8. Overnights: 1st on an ice-cut platform, 2nd semi-hanging on the wall, 3rd on a snow platform.
9. Leader: Dobrovolsky Alexander Stanislavovich — CMS; participants:
   • Sokolov Alexey Alexandrovich — 1st sports rank
   • Miroshnichenko Danata Yurievna — 1st sports rank
   • Gorbunova Tatyana Leonidovna — CMS
10. Coach: Dobrovolsky Alexander Stanislavovich.
11. Exit to the route: August 3, 1993. Summit — August 6, 1993, return to base camp — August 6, 1993.
12. Team SK "Polytechnic".

Protocol of ascent analysis

to v. Svobodnaya Korea 4740 via the center of N. Wall. Semiletkin route 6B cat. diff.

3.07–6.07.93

Present:

Head of rescue team COP "Tian-Shan": Kalashnikov A. №4542.

Head of rescue team OK "Polytechnic": Varikhin I. №5424.

Leader: Dobrovolsky A., CMS.

Participants:

• Gorbunova T., CMS.
• Miroshnichenko D., 1st sports rank
• Sokolov A., 1st sports rank

Dobrovolsky: "In this season, the weather in the Ala-Archa area was unstable, and we waited 3 days for the sun. At the first signs of stable good weather, we decided to start."

The lower and upper parts of the route are rockfall-prone, so we started on July 3 at 4:00 from Koronokikh overnight camps. We passed the glacier and approached the complex rantkluft by 6:00. We tied up. Worked in ropes: Dobrovolsky — Miroshnichenko, Gorbunova — Sokolov. Dobrovolsky worked first, passed the rantkluft with two ice axes. Then 8 ropes on 60-degree ice. The first one worked with two ice picks. Perils were organized. By 16:00, we reached the "TV" — 1st overnight stay.

Then the most difficult part of the route began. Sokolov and Miroshnichenko stayed to cut out an overnight platform in the ice, and Dobrovolsky and Gorbunova went to process the next part of the route and processed 2 ropes to the 1st control tour, which was located under a 2-meter cornice. Overnight stay is convenient.

4.07. We left at 10:00, waiting for it to get a bit warmer. Worked in ropes: Dobrovolsky — Miroshnichenko and Gorbunova — Sokolov. After overcoming the cornice, we passed a wide inclined crevice and approached the inner corner filled with ice. The corner was climbed using ice picks and ice screws, as well as rock relief. The first one went in rock shoes.

Then a rope was passed (ITO) under the 2nd cornice, where a drill was hammered in a difficult place for insurance and passage. After passing the 2nd (1 m) cornice (ITO), 2 ropes were passed by free climbing. After that, the group stopped for the night. Overnight stay is semi-hanging, inconvenient. For insurance, a drill was hammered.

5.07. We left at 10:00. After 5 m ITO — the second control tour. Then a very difficult 10 m wall (ITO), for additional insurance and climbing, 1 drill was hammered. The wall leads to slabs and then under the 3rd cornice with a wide crack on the right side. Another ITO rope on this crack. This is where the rocky part of the route ends. Transition to the right into the ice couloir. And five ropes on 60-degree ice. In the upper part, a snowdrift before the ridge. This difficult place was passed with two ice axes and an ice pick. We reached the ridge at 24:00 and descended 10 m to the firn plateau to the overnight stay site. Overnight stay is very convenient.

6.07. We reached the summit via a simple ridge. We descended to the beginning of the descent couloir and then by glissade into the Top-Karagay gorge.

Kalashnikov A.: "Why did the group descend into the Top-Karagay gorge, although it was faster to descend via the Lou couloir (BA)?"

Dobrovolsky A.: "The group was very tired, and we preferred a simpler path, although longer. We also came to the camp, not to Koronokie overnight stays, as we were in a hurry to get to the car."

Miroshnichenko D.: "The route seemed difficult to me, there were many cornices, a heavy backpack, inconvenient overnight stays. The only joy — we were lucky with the weather."

Sokolov A.: "The route is interesting, technically difficult. During the ascent, I was responsible for communication. Communication time: 12:00 and 20:00. Emergency — at 16:00. On 5.07, the observers' radio ran out of power, so we only heard the tone transmission. But communication was carried out regularly."

Gorbunova T.: "The route is very interesting. Enough cornices, ice, cold rocks. Inconvenient overnight stays, a large amount of equipment complicated the situation. But good weather, strong technical and physical training allowed us to successfully complete the ascent."

Varikhin I.: "The team trained throughout the season. Before the ascent, the participants made training ascents to the rocky BA in pairs. They showed excellent technical and physical preparation. It cannot be said that the route was passed very quickly, but the previous ascents (3rd passage) were completed in 6 days. The guys correctly decided to descend into Top-Karagay, as this descent is simpler and safer, as well as more logical in this situation."

Kalashnikov A.: "The ascent is counted. This season, no one has passed 6B in our area due to difficult weather conditions. But despite this, the guys got into the weather 'window' and successfully completed the ascent."