PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range
3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, from Walter Glacier through the ice barrier and along the left part of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. p. 4.1.
5. Height difference - 2770 m (4400–7170 m), length - 3985 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 54°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty - 1530 m. Average steepness of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty - 66°.
6. Pitons driven: | rock | placements | ice | | :--: | :--------: | :-: | | 149 | 64 | 198 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Region — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Communism, 7495 m, via the left buttress of the SW wall. V. Onishchenko, 1970.
4. Proposed — 6B cat. diff., second ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 2595 m, length — 2870 m (to reaching the summit ridge). Average steepness of the main part of the route — 64° (5400–7200 m), including 6B cat. diff. 90° (6020–6140 m), 80° (6370–6460 m), 80° (200 m long on other sections), total 6B cat. diff. — 420 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :-------- |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area — North-West Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, from Belyaev Glacier via south-west face of Peak 6950 m.
4. Expected difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference — 2795 m; length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 1300 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying rock 296, ice 15, for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO): rock 14, ice —.
7. Number of climbing hours: total 108.5 h, to the summit 95.5 h.

Passport

4.1.57 Peak Kommunizma from the northern ridge with ascent to BPP via the northern spur of Peak Kirova (up to BPP, then Peak Kirova 6372 m) V. Bezzubkin, 71, 6A cat.

1. Class: High-altitude technical
2. Pamir. Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the northern ridge with ascent to BPP via the northern spur of Peak Kirova.
4. Proposed - 6A cat., combination.
5. Route type: Combined.
6. Height difference of the main part of the route (up to BPP): ≈1600 m Length of the main part of the route (up to BPP): ≈2000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 60°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 670 m, 6th category difficulty: 85 m.
7. Pitons left on the route: total: 2, including bolted: 0.

1986 RSFSR Alpinism Championship High-altitude ascents class

Report

On the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the S buttress from Walter Glacier, traverse through p. Khokhlova Combined team of Irkutsk Oblast Leader: Popov V.N. Coach: Popov V.N.

Organization

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under Irkutsk Oblast Executive Committee Irkutsk, Karla Marksa str., 33

Passport

1. Category — High-altitude
2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range, Walter Glacier
3. Traverse of Peak Khokhlova — Peak Kommunizma via the North Counterfort from Walter Glacier (V. Bezzubkin's route)
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 2795 m, length — 4260 m Length of sections with 5–6 categories of difficulty — 1480 m
6. Pitons used:

• Rock — 120
• Bolt — 0

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Protocol No. 339 dated 12.8.71 5B first ascent - not considered (revised) 90 5190 m Before him - the path of the group (tse) - and "Burevestnik" (Dobrovolsky's)

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA FROM VALTER GLACIER VIA PEAK "6701" WITH A CLIMB ALONG THE COUNTERFORT, DECLARED FOR THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE 1971 SEASON. Team of the Krasnoyarsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Regional Executive Committee. July-August 1971. Team captain V. Bezzubkin

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ranges.
3. Traverse of Peak Xoxlova – Peak Kommunizma via the right NE buttress from the Balthazar Glacier.
4. First ascent, approximately 6A cat. dif.
5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length of the main part 1520 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 315 m. Average steepness of the main route: 57°, including 160 m of 6 cat. dif.
6. Pitons driven: Rock — 134, chocks — 53, ice screws — 51, bolt pitons — 0
7. Team's total climbing hours: 46 hours and 4 days.
8. Overnight camps: 1st — a platform built from stones on a rock shelf, 2nd — a platform carved in a snowy ridge, 3rd — a snow depression on a plateau. All overnight camps were lying-down bivouacs.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North-Western Pamir.
3. Climbing route to the summit of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m above sea level) via the south-western wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 2800 m; average steepness — 70°; length of complex section (90°) — 1540 m. Number of pitons: rock — 501; ice — 15; bolted — 32.
5. Number of travel hours — 121. Number of overnight stays — 23, half of them sitting.
6. Team of the Rostov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.
7. Team members:

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Ukrainian SSR ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":555,"height":552,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/r9xyHAvOvdkcYFgEnUgGJTGQdFabvpu5/img-0.jpeg","id":64763611}) Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the south face ![img-1.jpeg]({"width":682,"height":670,"format": "Jpeg","uri": "https://summitx.info/media/1/2u7knCK5FD8RbdRRywsEXZxaICkmFBhA/img-1.jpeg","id":64763612}) Kiev, 1973

I. Sports Characteristic of the Route

The object of the ascent, Peak Kommunizma, is located at the junction of the Petra Pervogo and Akademii Nauk ranges in the Central Pamir. After E. M. Abalakov's first ascent of Peak Kommunizma in 1933, a large number of new routes were laid to its summit. The area around Peak Kommunizma is frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well-known both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. (See "Pobezhdennye vershiny" 1968–1969.) Following the brilliant reconnaissance by V. Bozhuukov and A. Belopukhov in 1965, and the successful ascents by the groups led by E. Myslovsky and V. Onishchenko, the central part of the south face of Peak Kommunizma became one of the main challenging routes for Soviet mountaineers. Our team's acquaintance with Peak Kommunizma began in 1967 when we made the first ascent of its northeast ridge, earning the title of USSR champions. In 1972, we attempted to ascend via the center of the south face. Due to harsh weather conditions and time constraints, we were forced to descend, having reached an altitude of 6300–6400 m.