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Report on the ascent by a team of Leningrad climbers of a challenging route rated 6B on Dalar peak in 1983.

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USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

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Description of the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall, a 6th category difficulty route, completed by the CS DSO "Spartak" team in 1978.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
  3. Climbing route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
  4. Climbing characteristics: — route length — 1310 m. — height difference — 1000 m. — average steepness — 78°. — length of complex sections — 1095 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 185 ice — 20 into the rock
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Description of the passage of a 6B category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoi Nakhar in the Western Caucasus in 1976 by a group of climbers from the "Dombai" alpine camp.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical

2. Region — Western Caucasus

3. Route — Bolshoy Nakhara via 6B category route, 3780 m.

4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1080 m.

  • Average steepness: 81°
  • Length of complex section: 760 m.

5. Pitons hammered: rock

  • 315
  • Ice: 0
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Climbing the north-eastern wall of the Bolshoy Nakhari peak, the first ascent of category 6 complexity made by a team under the leadership of Yuri Japaridze in 1982.

  1. Rock climbing category
  2. Western Caucasus, Nakhar gorge
  3. Bolshoi Nakhar via the northeast wall
  4. Proposed category: 6th category of complexity, first ascent
  5. Height difference — 930 m, length — 1320 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 730 m Average steepness of main sections 81° (2950–3500), including 6th category of complexity:
  • 86°, 60 m (3010–3050);
  • 88°, 185 m (3070–3200);
  • 90°, 10 m (3230–3240);
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Ascent to the summit of Mamison (4360 m) via the right part of the North face, category of complexity 5B, made by a group of climbers led by Bodnik V.N.

Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik"

V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B

Team composition:

  1. Bodnik V.N.
  2. Barsukov V.A.
  3. Derkach A.A.
  4. Kharianyk I.V. Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3. Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.
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First ascent description of Tbau East peak via the Eastern ridge of the South-East bastion, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of the route and recommendations for passage.

  1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
  2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
  3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:
  • main part of the route: 75°;
  • entire route: 65°.
  1. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:
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Description of a new 5B category route through the center of the left part of the western wall of Tyan Peak, first ascent by a team led by Aleksandr Nekrasov in 1986.

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Category — Rock 2. Area from Krestovy Pass to Tfan peak 3. Erydag is centered in the left part of the western wall. 4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 820 m, of which 410 m is wall section, length — 2100 m, of which 600 m is wall section, length of sections R4–R5 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which R5 category of difficulty is about 150 m. Average steepness of main sections — 67 °. 6. Equipment used on the route: rock pitons — 98, bolt pitons — 6, chocks — 33, ice screws — 0. 7. Team's climbing hours — 23, days — 3.5. 8. Overnights: 1st lying on a rock shelf, 2nd semi-reclining on a rock shelf, 3rd lying on a plateau. 9. Team leader: Nekrasov Alexander Olegovich, Candidate Master of Sports

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Description of the ascent route to Avachinsky volcano (2741 m) via the Western slope in winter, difficulty category 1B, climbed by E. Lenz in 1842.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Ascent area: Kamchatka. Avachinskaya group of volcanoes.
  2. Peak name: Avachinsky volcano 2741 m. SW slope.
  3. Proposed category of difficulty: 1B (Winter).
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 1850 m.
  6. Route length: 6 km.
  7. Average slope: 30°.
  8. Total hours: 6 hours.
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First ascent of Peak Ahmadi Donish via the west face climbed by a USSR Armed Forces team in 1975.

Ascent Passport

Appendix No. 1 I. High-altitude and technical category 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights — Southwest wall of Peak "Ahmad Donish" (6666 m) 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 2300 m average steepness — 75° length of complex sections — 1340 m 5. Pitons driven:

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Description of the ascent route to the mountain peak with a detailed analysis of the technical features and tactics for passing the challenging section.

Fig. 7

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