Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Climbing area, ridge — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the southern wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics:
   1. height difference — 2800 m
   2. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1200 m
   3. average steepness of the lower part — 55° average steepness of the wall section — 85°

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

Peak Korzhenevskoi via NE ridge Leader: Sivtsov B. 1968 Received on October 3 Date of mailing from Donetsk by post September 28, 1968

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Peak — Peak "E. Korzhenevskoi" 7105 m, via the South Ridge from Moskvin Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–7105 m, section length 5 km – 60 m, average steepness of the route 42°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying SK-16, ice screws 2, for creating anchor points — 2 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — three, two bivouacs were set up on the ridge by cutting part of the snowy ridge and laying out stone platforms.
9. Team

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Report

on the first ascent of the southern ridge of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by the CS SDSO "Burevestnik" team Team Captain /V. Tsetlin/ Coach /V. Smit/ Moscow, 1966 Fig. 2. Scheme of ascent to Peak E. Korzhenevskaya. The scheme indicates the sections shown on the profile map.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2018 High-Altitude Class

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the South Ridge (Tsetlin, 1966) 5A Category of Difficulty

Team Coach: S.A. Semiletkin Team Leader: F.M. Zaliev Team Members:

• A.S. Dusheiko
• S.V. Livandev, St. Petersburg 2018

Ascent Passport

• Region: PAMIR Area: Academy of Sciences Range (western side of Fedchenko Glacier from Yazglemsky Pass in the south to Muksu River in the north with all lateral spurs) Peak Name: Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area - Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak E. Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, east face 4. Proposed difficulty category - highest 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 2600 m, average slope - 55°, length of sections with 5th difficulty category - 525 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors (I.T.O.) rock 21, 8 ice 30, 2

Introduction

Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya is the fourth highest seven-thousander in the country (7105 m). Despite being near Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), Peak Evgenia looks very majestic. Its giant summit dome is visible from the Zaalaysky ridge pass from Ters-Agar to Khodzha-Toо. The approaches to it are very difficult:

• The path is blocked by the mighty river of the Pamir - Muk-su;
• But the difficulties do not end there: the path along the left (orogr.) side of Muk-su is often blocked by deep, steep-walled sairs cut by turbulent rivers originating from the glaciers of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the First ridges. The approaches to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya are relatively simple only along the valley of the Mushketov Glacier; from here it looks dazzlingly magnificent. The approach along the Ayu-Dzhilga valley is difficult: the river flows in a narrow canyon. But even having overcome the difficulties of approaching the Ayu-Dzhilga Glacier, one will not feel relief: the path to Peak Evgenia leads up steep, artificially polished black walls. The path along the Fortambek valley is blocked by a canyon of the river only in one place. All routes to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya that have been completed so far start from the Fortambek valley. It is precisely the inaccessibility of the summit that EXPLAINS the rare expeditions aimed at conquering it. Without helicopters, this undertaking is extremely cumbersome. Currently, there are several helicopter landing sites at the foot of the peak, and therefore interest in this summit has increased significantly. Six different routes have been completed, but it cannot be said that the peak is fully explored and climbing it is not challenging. A characteristic feature of most of these high-altitude routes is the high demands they make on the technical preparation of climbers.

Climbing Passport:

1. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
2. Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m, via SW ridge (V. Markelov, 1984)
3. Climbing category — 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2500 m Route length: 5000 m Length of sections: category V — 30 m Average slope:

• main part of the route — 60°

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m, route length 5000 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 3000 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 50° (5100–6100 m).
6. Pitons used: rock 23/0