1. Class of ascent — high-altitude;
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
4. Category of difficulty — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
6. Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
7. Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader

CIS Climbing Championship 2009 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent

Report

on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m via the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B (V. Markelov's route) by the team of Sumy Regional Federation of Alpine Sports from July 24 to July 28, 2009 Team Captain: Sergey A. Pugachev Team Coaches:

• Fedor P. Mityukhin
• Mikhail V. Zagirnyak

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Central Pamir
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the triangle of the Western wall
4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent
5. Height difference: 1900 m, length — 3305 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 765 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 85°–120 m.
6. Pitons driven:

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION Central Council of the SDSO "Burevestnik", Bauman MSTU sports club

Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via South Face of the Pamir Mountains. (Report)

Team Coach A. Ovchinnikov Team Captain L. Dobrovolsky Fortambek Glacier — Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru I. Brief Geographical Description, Exploration, and History of Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m

Left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge

led by Chochia P.A. 1988

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range, section №4.1 of the route classifier on mountain peaks.
2. Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), left edge of the western wall of the southern ridge.
3. Proposed: 5B — 6A difficulty category (first ascent).
4. Route character: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1800 m. Route length: 2900 m. Length of sections:

Ascent Certificate

1. Category of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. Route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons used: rock 16, ice 50. Number of placed protection elements: 12.
7. Total climbing time: 18 h 30 min.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved into the snow and ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.

High-Altitude Climbing Category

Report

on the ascent of Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, submitted for the primacy of the Central Council of the "Burevestnik" in the 1976 season Team of the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association October 1976 Team captain V. Belyakov Moscow

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: High-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations: Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) via Southeast Ridge, category 5B complexity
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2925 m, average steepness — 40°, complex section length — 1105 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 2, ice — 2, bolted —
6. Total climbing hours: 34 hours
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 4 bivouacs, comfortable, on moraines and snow platforms on the ridge, safe.
8. Team name: Team of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society
9. Full name of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-Western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. The route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 16, ice 50. Used 12 pieces of protection gear.
7. Travel time: 18 hours 30 minutes.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved out in a snowy-ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.
9. Selivanov M.A. CMS — leader

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.