Central Asia

Description of the first ascent of the Southwest Face of **Trango Tower** (6237 m) in Karakorum, made by a Russian team in 2007 via a Category 6B route.

Ascent Record Region — Karakoram, Trango group. Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall. Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent. Route characteristic — combined. Route Description wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).

First ascent description of the right part of the northwest face of Great Trango Tower 6150m in Karakoram, Pakistan, made in 2007 by a Russian team led by Alexander Mikhalitsin.

Ascent Record Region — Karakoram, Pakistan. Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall. Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent. Route characteristic — rock. Route description: wall section height difference — 1820 m route length — 2100 m length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m average steepness of the entire route — 70°

Report on the first ascent to the summit of Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, category 6B, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in 4 days in August 2019.

Russian Championship in Alpinism Technical Class 2019 REPORT on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019. I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION | | 1. General Information | | | :-----------------------------------------: | :-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of team members | Popova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS) |

### Ascent Route Overview to Spantik (Golden Peak) The ascent route to Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is located in the Karakoram range. The following summary provides an overview of the region, approach, climate, and technical profile of the route. #### Region and Approach Spantik is situated in the Karakoram range, a vast mountainous region known for its rugged terrain and diverse climbing opportunities. #### Climate The climate in the Karakoram is characterized by extreme variability, with significant temperature fluctuations and precipitation. #### Technical Profile The ascent route to Spantik involves various technical challenges, including steep snow and ice slopes, requiring a high level of mountaineering expertise.

Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right: 1 — team's route 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987) Description of the Climbing Area Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world: Himalayas Karakoram

Report on the ascent of the CSKA MO RK team to the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) in the Himalayas in 2003.

Himalayas; Nanga Parbat (Diāmīr) 8126 m; Cat. difficulty — 6A; Route character — combined; Route height difference — 4026 m. Route length — 6500 m. Pitons used on the route: total — 35, left on the route — 35; Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Ice | Chocks | Friend | Firn | | :--: | :-: | :-: | :----: | :--: | :--: |

Report on the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) via the Diamir Wall in 1997 with a detailed description of the route and team tactics.

PASSPORT High-altitude class Western Himalayas, Diamir gorge Nanga Parbat peak — 8125 m via Diamir Wall (Kinshofer route) Proposed 5B category of difficulty Elevation gain: from glacier — 3800 m, length — 4760 m. Length of 6A category sections — 120 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from camp at 5100 m to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5400 to 6200 m) — 60°. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — 37.

Climbing report on Latok III (6949 m) ascent via the left part of the SW face, category 6B route in Karakoram.

Russian Championship. High-altitude class. Report on the ascent to Latok III (6949 m) Route on the left part of the SW wall. 6B cat. diff. Ascent Passport Region 10.2 Karakoram mountains. Latok III 6949 m, via left part of SW wall. 6B complexity category. Route type: combined. Route characteristics:

Report on the first Russian expedition to Gasherbrum 2 (8035 m) via the classic southern route, category 6A difficulty level in 2005.

First Russian Expedition to Gasherbrum 2 Climbing Passport Karakoram, Baltoro region Gasherbrum 2 8035 m, from the south (classic route) 6A category of difficulty, variation Ice-snow route Elevation gain of the route: 2935 m. Route length 8600 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 240 m. Average slope 28°.

**First Ascent of the Southwest Face of Broad Peak (8047 m)** in Karakoram by Kazakhstani climbers in 2005, route category 6B.

Ascent Passport Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent Submitted as category 6B complexity Route type – combined Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0

Report on the ascent of CSKA MO RK team to Broad Peak (8048 m) in Karakoram in 2003 via the west face of the north ridge.

Ascent Passport Karakoram mountain system Broad Peak, 8048 m Category of difficulty — 5B West Ridge of the North Ridge, Austrian 1957, combined Route height difference — 2946 m. Route length — 5714 m. Pitons used on the route (Korean expedition pitons): total — 52 left on the mountain — 52