Championship of the USSR in Alpinism, High-Altitude Class

Report of the CS DSO "Mehnat" Team on the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the NE Counterfort.

Team Captain: VORONIN V. G. Team Coach: ZEL'CHIEVKOV V. A. Pamir - Tashkent 1970
THE TEAM DEDICATES ITS ASCENT ON PIK KOMMUNIZMA 7495 m TO THE XXIV CONGRESS OF THE CPSU

I. Route Description.

August 10, 1970 - Approach from the Base Camp to the route. August 11, 1970 - Start of the route (R0–R1) on a snowy slope transitioning into an icy slope, bypassing the avalanche cone on the right.

Report

TEAMS OF CS DSO «MEKHNAT» ON ASCENT TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA VIA NORTH-EAST FACE IN THE PROGRAM OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Tashkent — 1978 to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting

Characteristics of the Object

Peak Kommunizma 7495 m is the highest peak in the Pamir Mountains, located at the junction of the Akademiya Nauk and Petra I ranges. The height of the peak was first determined

Central Pamir. Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), North-East Face

Team of the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society

Team Composition:

1. Chunovkin G.A. MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V. MS — participant
3. Slesov I.V. MS — participant
4. Dzhioev G.L. MS — participant
5. Mikhalev V.E. CMS — participant 1978

Brief Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Climbing Area

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Tajik SSR

Peak Communism

First ascent from the north with an exit to the Pamir Plateau along the wall to the right of the Trampolinny Glacier

I. General Characteristics of the Route and Walls

The ascent route passes to the right of the Trampolinny Glacier, along the northern wall of the Pamir Firn Plateau, with an exit to the plateau, and further, through the Big Barrier, to the summit of Peak Communism. The ascent along the wall with an exit to the plateau is a first ascent. The further ascent to the summit through the Big Barrier is part of the classified route of ascent to Peak Communism from the north via the so-called "Burevestnik Ridge" 5B category of difficulty. The Pamir Firn Plateau with an average elevation of 5800–6100 m (according to literary sources) drops steeply to the north onto the Turamys Glacier with a steep rock-ice wall.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range
3. Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the left counterfort from Stalin Glacier
4. Proposed – category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length – 5300 m Rock section elevation gain 1780 m, length of rock section – 2320 m Length of grade 5–6 sections – 540 m Average steepness of the rock section – 51°
6. Pitons used: rock 94, chocks 85, ice screws 16

Passport

I. High-altitude class 2. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range 3. Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the left counterfort from Stalin Glacier 4. Proposed — category 5B difficulty, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 2895 m, length — 5300 m Elevation gain of the rocky section — 1780 m, length of the rocky section — 2320 m Length of category 5 sections — 540 m, average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 51° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 23, chocks — 214, ice screws — 33 7. Team's travel time: 35 hours, days — 3.5

1917–1967

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution

Report

on the ascent of Peak Communism (7495 m) from the Bivachny glacier by the sports team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Sports Union. Materials for the USSR Climbing Championship 1967. Dnepropetrovsk 1967 Thus, the final composition of the assault group after adjustments was as follows:

1. Sinkovsky A.B. — MS — captain
2. Zaydler A.M. — MS — participant
3. Pechenin V.M. — MS — participant
4. Verbitsky G.G. — CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. High-altitude category 2. Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range 3. Peak Kommunizma via the southern ridge from Bivachny Glacier 4. Cat. diff. 5B 5. Elevation gain from camp I to the summit 3300 m length 12 km, average steepness 25–27° 6. Pitons left 2 7. Climbing hours 52, days 10 8. Campsites: 1 on a moraine

Report

Ascent to Peak

Stalin

Group of CS SDSO "Burvestnik" Pamir, July – August 1961

Table of Contents

Introduction...........................................1 Brief Description of the Area............................1 Preparatory Period............................4 Assault.............................................11

Kiev City Council of Sports Societies and Organizations

Report

On the ascent of Peak Communism via the north-eastern ridge from Stalin Glacier Kiev, 1967

№	Full Name	Sports rank	Year of birth	Party affiliation	Member since	Profession	Address
1.	KUSTOVSKY Anatoly Alekseevich (leader)	Master of Sports	1925	non-party	1949	Engineer	Kiev, B. Druzhby Narodov 28-a, apt. 14
2.	CHEREVKO Vladimir Leonidovich	Candidate Master	1934	CPSU member	1953	Engineer	Kiev, Elektrotekhnichesky per. 10, apt. 50
3.	KOLESNIK Vasily Vasilyevich	1st sports category	1939	Komsomol member	1956	Engineer	Kiev, Pushkinskaya 34, apt. 40
4.	ZAYD Pavel Wolfovich	1st sports category	1937	non-party	1956	Geologist	Osh, Shakhterskaya 51, apt. 6