South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent to Bronenosets Peak (2529 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, category 2B difficulty, route description and technical information.
- BRONEONOSETs
- 2529
- 2B (via the western ridge)
- Eastern Sayan, eastern edge of the Tunka Alps (southwestern spur)
- Total ascent time 7.5 hours
- From N: Lyevaya Kyngarga river; from S: Left tributary of the Kyngarga river
- The first ascent via the western ridge was made during the Irkutsk regional alpinist event on May 9, 1976 (event leader — Trubnikov V.I.). Group members: Adov V.G., Pologrudov V.V., Filippova T.M., Nemirovsky Yu.B., Ponamarchuk V.S., Stanevich A.M.
- Section 1 From the base camp on the Kyngarga river, along the left (orographic) bank of the first left tributary of the Lyevaya Kyngarga river — ascent along the northern ridge of peak Arshan (photo 1). The ascent is not technically difficult. In the upper part, a gendarme is bypassed on the right along the way near a characteristic "tooth" (photo 2).
Route Description: З гребню
Report on ascending Bronenosets Peak (2430 m) via the West Ridge, complexity category 2B, featuring a detailed description of the terrain and key route sections.
Report on the ascent of Pik Bronenosets (2430 m) via the Western ridge, route category 2B (first ascent by V. Adov, 1976) Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое gorge, 6.1.2 2023 I compiled this report because I was unable to find a description of the route ascended by V.G. Adov in 1976. The route has many advantages, such as diverse terrain, which will allow novice climbers to practice their skills in несложном лазанье, setting points, and moving in связках, and there is also a rappel. In addition, the route is conveniently located near the village of Arshan, which eliminates the need for tedious and multi-day approaches. On average, it takes no more than 4 hours to reach the base camp from the village (approximately 8 km and 1000 m ascent). Another advantage is the logic and beauty of the route: it runs between two beautiful peaks of the Eastern Sayan, and the climber will have a magnificent view of the panorama from the Western ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое gorge, 6.1.2
- Pik Bronenosets (2430 m), 3rd category
- 2B — passage of V. Adov's route
Route Description: правый ЮЗ кф.
Report on the first ascent via the right buttress of the Southwest wall of Bronenosets peak (2411 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Climbing Report
on the summit of Bronenosets (2411 m) via the right buttress of the Southwest wall (first ascent) Eastern Sayan range, August 2009
Irkutsk — 2009. Ascent Passport
Area — Eastern Sayans, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Summit — Bronenosets 2411 m Route — right buttress of the Southwest wall, proposed category 2B, first ascent Route type — rock climbing. Route characteristics — height difference 420 m, route length about 720 m, average slope 45°. Hooks left on the route — 0.
Route Description: кулуару З стены
Ascent to the summit of Bronenosets (2430 m) via the western wall couloir, complexity category 3A, a combined route of 300 m with a height difference of 220 m.
Climbing passport for v. Bronenosets 2430 m, 1 western wall, original.
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinsky ridge, Dождевое, section 6.1.2. 2. The summit Bronenosets (2430) of the Western wall. 3. Proposed category of difficulty, first ascent 4. The nature of the route is combined. 5. Height difference 220 m, length 300 m, average steepness 45°. 6. Driven pitons: rock and stopper. 7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours
v. Bronenosets (2430 m) via the couloir of the West wall,
original. Category of difficulty. From the base camp on the forest border between the gorges Dождевое and 2-я Шихтолаика to the foot of the mountain 1.5 hours walk.
Route Description: левому кф. З стены
Description of the ascent route to Bronenosets peak (2430 m) via the left counterfort of the western wall, category 4A, with a detailed analysis of sections and passage options.
Ascent Log
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
- Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
- Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
- Team's walking hours – 9 h.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: правому кф. З стены
Description of the ascent route to Bronenosets peak (2430 m) via the right counterfort of the West wall, category 4B difficulty level.
Ascent Log
- East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
- Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Right counterfort of the West wall.
- Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock climbing.
- Elevation gain — 230 m, length — 440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°.
- Pitons used: rock and wired — 60 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 12 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team members:
Route Description: центр. кф. З стены
Report on the ascent of the Irkutsk alpine section team to Bronenosets peak via the 4B category route.
Appendix No. 2 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report
Report Form for Routes 4A–6B Cat. Diff.
Report
On the ascent to the peak Bronenosets via the Central Counterfort of the Western wall route, category 4B, by the team of the Irkutsk Alpine Section, from August 17, 2018.
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Voylichenko S.K., CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Korshunov M.V., 2nd sports rank, Rudman A.P., 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Voylichenko Sergey Konstantinovich |
Route Description: центру З стены
Ascent to the summit of Bronenosets (2430 m) via the center of the western wall in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, complexity category 5a, route description and technical information.
Title Page
5A 8-6.1.99 Peak BRONONOSETS, 2430 m, via Center of West Face, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan Mountains. 6.1. Irkutsk, 2006
Climbing Report
- Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
- Peak Bronenosets, 2430 m, via Center of West Face.
- Proposed 5A category, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Elevation gain — 230 m, length — 412 m, average steepness of the wall section — 75°.
Route Description: В ребру
Ascent to the summit Burevestnik (2929 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, description of the route, altitude difference of 750–800 m, route difficulty level.
Brief geographical description of the area
The peak "Burevestnik" (2929 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges of the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching in a latitudinal direction for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym gorge. In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shu-Mak pass in the west - there are many peaks in the ridge that are of great interest to climbers. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1800 m, on the northern slopes 1600-1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. The peak "Burevestnik" has an elevation of 2929 m above sea level - the highest point in the area (Peak Per'ya 2996 m). The nearest settlements are Arshan and Tagarhay, 25-30 km away. There is a dirt road to the Moigota gorge. It takes 8 hours to reach the base camp on the forest boundary from the gorge. From the base camp, ascend the gorge to the Moraine Ridge. 300-400 m later, turn left to the edge of the "Hanging Valley". Ascend via medium and large scree and rock sections.
Section R0–R1
From the edge of the "Hanging Valley", move right to the ridge. Connect on the ridge. Move simultaneously along the left slope. The ridge is 400 m long. Average steepness is 20°. (Photos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5).
Section R1–R2
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Burevestnik" (2929 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy range of the Eastern Sayan, including the characteristics of the area, approaches, and technical information about the route.
Petrel 2929 m, 2B, October 31, 1978. V. Monomarchuk + 5 people (height difference 630 m, steepness 40°, snow depth 5 cm, 6 h).
Photo 2. The route from the Birop gorge side. Sections:
- R2–R3
- R4–R5
- R3–R4
Map of the ascent area. The route is assault (2 groups). Б. лагерь — base camp.
Brief administrative and geographical outline of the ascent area
Peak 2929 m («Petrel») is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge of the Eastern Sayan, in the valley of the Moygota River. Vegetation is typically taiga: