Report

On the first ascent of Peak Koshtan-Tau via the Southwest Ridge wall, done in 1971 for the USSR Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Kuibyshev, 1971

Alpine Characteristics of the Region

The Bezengi region is the true center of the Central Caucasus. It is home to almost all of its five-thousanders (except for the extinct volcanoes Elbrus and Kazbek). The region has a very complex geological structure, was uplifted during the last Quaternary phases of the Alpine four-axle Fogenesis and is one of the most interesting regions in terms of alpinism. The intense glaciation from the north, the steepness of the rock walls from the south, and the vast extent of possible paths from any side attract groups of qualified climbers. The climate of this region is harsh, which is explained not only by the large elevation compared to other Caucasus regions but also by the location of the surrounding ridges. The unsettled weather here is the result of:

• the penetration of air flows from the south;
• abundant local evaporation;

2.6.95

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Uzlovaya (3791 m): via West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category of difficulty: p/p
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 100 m, route length — 310 m, length of sections: 3 (8 m) 2 (160 m)

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT AYKHVA UZLOVAIA, PROPOSED CATEGORY 2A TEAM MAK "FRILINE" November 3, 2018

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Sugansky Ridge; Classification section number 2.6.
2. Pik Botkina — 3897 m; from the South along the South-East ridge.
3. Proposed category: 2B; first ascent — January 15, 1999.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route elevation gain — 600 m. Route length is about 1400 m. Steepness of key sections is up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route is 30°.
6. Number of pitons left on the route — 3.
7. Team's travel hours — 6, days — 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. p. Naumova (3602 m) – from the South.
3. Proposed 2A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 300 m (from point R0). Total route length – 510 m. Length of sections with 4th category of complexity – 30 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections – 70°

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category: combined.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugan Range.
3. Peak, route: Uruimagovoi Peak (3912 m) via the Southeast Ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category of difficulty; p/p
5. Route description: height difference – about 500 m. route length – 1250 m. section lengths:
   • 2 category of difficulty – 320 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Komidon river gorge
3. Peak, route: V. BARZOND-TSAGVERI (3361 m), Eastern ridge
4. Expected difficulty category: 3B category, first ascent
5. Route description: elevation gain — 360 m route length — 760 m section lengths:
   • 3rd category — 40 m

Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing region: Caucasus, 26: Komidon River valley
3. Peak, route: KION-KHOKH peak (3420 m): from the South, right of the ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty: 4A: partially explored
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m, route length — 450 m, section lengths:
   • 3 — 140 m
   • 4 — 30 m
   • 5 — 55 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60–70°

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; North-Eastern ridge-branch of Kalthberg peak; section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Monakh peak — 2757 m; from South along South-West ridge.
3. Proposed 2B category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation difference — 400 m. Length about 1400 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the whole route — 20°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 5.
7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours, days — 1.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

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