Ascent Log

Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltcy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Left buttress of the Western wall.
Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
Route type — rock climbing.
Elevation gain 190 m, length 242 m, average slope 55°.
Pitons hammered: rock and wired 40 pcs.
Team's walking hours – 9 h.
No overnight stays on the route.
Group: Kikina E.I., 2nd sports category – leader Afanasiev A.E., MS (Second ascent on August 28, 2005: Glazunov E.V. Sazonov R.A. Third ascent on November 3, 2005: Belousov S.R. Davydenko M.A.)
Coach Afanasiev A.E., MS.
Summit ascent and return — July 10, 2005.

Description of the ascent route to Broненосец peak (2430 m) via the Left buttress of the Western wall, cat. 4A (combined variant)

The route starts from a scree slope with a western aspect in the upper reaches of the Dождевое valley, opposite the Arshan peak, to the left (in the direction of travel) of the buttress. After the first ascent, two variants (right and left) were proposed for the second and third groups. The proposed description is the most logical and straightforward path for traversing this buttress.

Route sections:

Sec. 0–1, 25 m, 50°, I+ — a gully among broken rocks with rubble.
Sec. 1–2, 25 m, 65°, IV− — broken rocks. Live rocks are encountered. Exit under the reddish wall.
Sec. 2–3, 15 m, 45°, II+ — up and to the right along a ledge to the buttress crest.
Sec. 3–4, 3 m, 80°, III+ — to the right along the right side of the buttress – a sloping ledge.
Sec. 4–5, 30 m, 75°, IV+ — a one-sided internal corner – along the left wall.
Sec. 5–6, 10 m, 90°, V− — the key section of the route. Along the left wall of the chimney with a medium-sized gap. Control cairn on a piton.
Sec. 6–7, 20 m, 65°, III− — broken rocks.
Sec. 7–8, 7 m, 50°, II− — to the right along a ledge.
Sec. 8–9, 4 m, 60°, III+ — a narrow chimney-cave.
Sec. 9–10, 3 m, 80°, III+ — a wall above a flake.
Sec. 10–11, 40 m, 45°, I+ — along ledges to the right.
Sec. 11–12, 20 m, 55°, II− — up along green ledges.
Sec. 12–13, 40 m, 65°, III− — along the left slab of a one-sided internal corner. Direct exit to the summit.

Descent:

To the south via a non-classified route of cat. 1B.
Or to the southeast down a simple slope into the Вторая Шихтолайка valley, located between the Dождевое and Артемьевым valleys, towards the Tunkinskaya valley.

Description of the ascent route to

Broненосец peak (2430 m) via the Left buttress of the Western wall, cat. 4A (first ascent variant)

The route begins from a scree slope with a western aspect in the upper reaches of the Dождевое valley, opposite the Arshan peak.

Sec. 0–1: 40 m, 55°, II+ — up and to the right along grassy ledges and easy rocks to a vaguely defined gully among large internal formations.
Sec. 1–2: 15 m, 90°, IV+ — a chimney. Climbed using bridging.
Sec. 2–3: 15 m, 90°, IV+ — to the left of the internal corner along the wall.
Sec. 3–4: 10 m, 60°, II+ — a rocky gully.
Sec. 4–5: 5 m, 90°, IV− — a wall.
Sec. 5–6: 35 m, 50°, II+ — a gully with two walls, 4 meters 70°. Exit under the reddish wall.
Sec. 6–7: 15 m, 45°, II+ — up and to the right along a ledge to the buttress crest.
Sec. 7–8: 3 m, 80°, III+ — to the right along the right side of the buttress – a sloping ledge.
Sec. 8–9: 30 m, 75°, IV+ — a one-sided internal corner – along the left wall.
Sec. 9–10: 7 m, 90°, V− — the key section of the route. There are two options:
- Left – along the left wall of the chimney with a medium-sized gap;
- Right – along the wall with a large crevice. Control cairn on a piton.
Sec. 10–11: 20 m, 75°, III+ — along slabs, slightly to the right.
Sec. 11–12: 10 m, 55°, II+ — an open internal corner.
Sec. 12–13: 7 m, 50°, II− — to the right along a ledge.
Sec. 13–14: 4 m, 60°, III+ — a narrow chimney-cave.
Sec. 14–15: 3 m, 80°, III+ — a wall above a flake.
Sec. 15–16: 40 m, 45°, I+ — along ledges to the right.
Sec. 16–17: 20 m, 55°, II− — up along green ledges.
Sec. 17–18: 40 m, 65°, III− — along the left slab of a one-sided internal corner. Direct exit to the summit.

Descent:

To the south via a non-classified route of cat. 1B.
To the southeast down a simple slope into the Вторая Шихтолайка valley, located between the Dождевое and Артемьевым valleys, towards the Tunkinskaya valley.

Broненосец (2430 m), left buttress of the West wall, cat. 4A. UIAA diagram. Scale 1:2000

M–М 4А Б. Broненосец M–М 4А