Ascent Log
- East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое valley, section 6.1.
- Bronenosets peak, 2430 m, via the Right counterfort of the West wall.
- Proposed category: 4B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock climbing.
- Elevation gain — 230 m, length — 440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°.
- Pitons used: rock and wired — 60 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 12 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team members: Afanasiev A.E. MS Afanasieva A.A. II sports rank Glazunov E.V. II sports rank Kikina E.I. II sports rank
- Coach — Afanasiev A.E. MS
- Ascent and descent on September 18, 2005.
Route Description for Ascent to Bronenosets Peak (2430 m) via the Right counterfort of the West wall, cat. 4B
The route starts from a talus slope with western exposure in the upper Dождевое valley opposite v. Arshan from under the West wall of the South summit of Bronenosets. From a fresh white rockfall scar, move right along an internal angle.
Section R0–R1 80 m. 75° IV+ Mossy internal angle, left edge is vertical. At the junction of edges — ice buildup. Climbing with ice techniques.
Section R1–R2 40 m. 50° II– Along the ridge towards the wall. Control cairn under a mushroom-shaped rock wrapped in polyethylene.
Section R2–R3 40 m. 60° IV– Upper bastion wall. Move right.
Section R3–R4 35 m. 70° V– Right edge of the upper bastion wall. Possible detour to the right via a gully, exiting to the right of the route.
Section R4–R5 45 m. 85° V+ Chimney.
Section R5–R6 30 m. 75° V– Wall.
Section R6–R7 10 m. 85° V+ Wall.
Section R7–R8 5 m. 95° V+ Cornice.
Section R8–R9 5 m. 55° II+ Exit to the south summit.
Section R9–R10 150 m. 2° I– Across scree to the main summit. To the summit.
Descent to the South via an unclassified route cat. 2A, or to the Southeast via a straightforward slope into the Vtoraya Shihtolayka valley, located between Dождевое and Artemiev valleys, towards the Tunkinskaya valley.
Route Diagram for Ascent to Bronenosets Peak (2430 m) via the Right counterfort of the West wall, cat. 4B
| Rock Pitons | Wired Elements | UIAA Diagram | Difficulty | Length | Steepness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R 10 | |||||
| R9 | I | 150 m | 10° | ||
| 1 | 1 | R8 | II+ | 5 m | 55° |
| 1 | 1 | R7 | V+ | 5 m | 95° |
| 1 | 2 | R6 | V+ | 10 m | 85° |
| 3 | 2 | R5 | V– | 30 m | 75° |
| 2 | 6 | R4 | V+ | 45 m | 85° |
| 4 | 5 | R3 | V– | 35 m | 70° |
| 3 | 5 | R2 | IV– | 40 m | 60° |
| 4 | 6 | R1 | II– | 40 m | 50° |
| R0 | IV+ | 80 m | 75° |
Total: 19 rock pitons, 28 wired elements.
Bronenosets Peak
Bronenosets Peak
Bronenosets Peak. Route 4B
Section R0–R1, Section R2.