South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: СВ ребру
Report on the first ascent of Goltsov Babkha via the North-Eastern edge, approximately category 2B, by the Baikal Alpine School team on June 1, 2020.
Report
On the first ascent of golets Babkha via the North-Eastern edge, approximately category 2B complexity, by the Baikal Alpine School team on June 1, 2020.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Afanasyev A.E. — MS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Cherepanov A.V. — CMS |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Afanasyev A.E. — MS |
Route Description: В гребню через Ю вершину
Report on the first ascent of golets Babkha via the Eastern ridge, category 2A, by the Baikal School of Alpinism team on May 31, 2020.
Report
On the first ascent of Golets Babkha via the eastern ridge, approximately 2A category of difficulty, by the Baikal Alpine School team on May 31, 2020. 2020 Irkutsk
I. Ascent Report
| # | General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Cherepanov A.V. — Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Afanasiev A.E. — Master of Sports |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the ascent to the peak of Kart (2661 m) via the Eastern Ridge, a 2A category difficulty route, in the South Muya Range.
Report
On ascending Kart peak, 2661 m via the Eastern ridge, approx. category 2A, from July 5, 2020 to July 5, 2020. 2020
I. Climbing report
| 1. General information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Penkina Polina Vadimovna, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Ramazanova Anastasia Evgenievna, Sycheva Daria Sergeevna |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports) |
Route Description: 1-му бастиону З стены Ю гребня
Report on the first ascent of the "Der fliegende Holländer" route, category 6A, to the Mechta peak in the South Muya Range.
Report on the First Ascent to the Peak Mechta via the "Der fliegende Hollander" Route on the First Bastion of the Western Wall of the Southern Ridge, Category 6A, by the Team "Невозможно – это не навсегда..." from July 12, 2020, to July 12, 2020
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Syshchikov Anatoly, Master of Sports, Panova Alena Mikhailovna, Candidate for Master of Sports |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Report on the first ascent of the peak Mechta (Dream) 2590 m via the South-West wall (grade 6B) in the South-Muya Range in 2019.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Mechta 2590 m via the South-West wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty. for the period from July 25, 2019 to July 25, 2019
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Oleneva Nadezhda Alexandrovna, Candidate for Master of Sports, Tkachenko Pavel Valentinovich, 1st sports rank |
Route Description: По отвесам С стены
First ascent of the route 6A cat. complexity "Water World" on the northern wall of the Ostrog peak (2520 m) in the Ikat ridge.
Report on the First Ascent
As part of the Russian Mountaineering Championship
High-Altitude Technical Class 2022 Peak Ostrog (2520 m) via the North Face verticals. Route name — "Water World". Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9 Team Leader: Kleptsov A.A. Participants:
- Lazarev S.A.
- Panova A.M. The ascent took place on August 2–3, 2022.
I. Ascent Passport
Route Description: С кф. бастиона Нож и В ребру
Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route via the northern counterforce of the "Shtyk" bastion and the eastern edge of Shtyk-Nож (2540 m) peak in the Ikatsky ridge.
Ascent Report
Within the framework of the Russian mountaineering championship. High-altitude-technical class. Shtyk–Nozh Peak (2540 m)
- North counterfort of the "Shtyk" bastion
- East edge Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, first ascent. Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9. Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Ilyinsky V.A.
Ascent Passport
Route Description: ледовому галстуку С стены
### Ascent route to Munhuli peak: ice and snow ascent via the north face, traversing an ice couloir and exiting onto the eastern ridge.
Brief Description of the Route Approach
From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.
Massif
Route Profile
Route Description: ледовому галстуку С стены
Ascent to the summit of Munhuzhak (3577 m) via the "tie" glacier from the northern side, difficulty category 4B.
V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff.
sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears.
sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes.
approx. 45° E
12
Route Description: левому кф. В гребня
Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Munhuluk (3577 m) in the Tsagan-Shibetu ridge, Tuva, with details on the approach and ascent.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category. Rock climbing.
- Ascent area. Mountain system of Tuva. Tsagan-Shibetu ridge.
- Peak Munkhulik, 3577 m above sea level, via N ridge, combined route.
- Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 530 m, 4th category of difficulty — 70 m; average steepness — 45°
- Pitons hammered: rock — 6, ice — 4, chocks — 9.
- Climbing hours — 8 hours.
- No overnight stays.