Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic on the border with Mongolia in the Bolshoy Sayan range, in the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut gorges. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m), the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is approximately 300 km west of Irkutsk. From Irkutsk to the Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. From Mondy, a 25 km gravel road leads to the Oka region of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge over the Bely Irkut River. Beyond that, there is no road. The path to the foot of Munku-Sardyk passes through the canyon of the Bely Irkut and Moguvek rivers, from an altitude of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. In winter, this section is traversed on ice crust using crampons. Above the canyon and forest boundary, the Moguvek River valley is wide and U-shaped. In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a glacial lake, Ehoy. From the road to the base camp at the forest boundary, it takes 4 hours to approach. The ascent to Munku-Sardyk begins from the lake. The northern slope of the Munku-Sardyk massif, facing the lake, is a glacier. The path to Munku-Sardyk via this slope is classified as category 2A. North from Munku-Sardyk's summit to Eskadrilya Peak, there is a rocky ridge of the main Bolshoy Sayan range. In the middle part of this section, Dinamo Peak rises to the east, towards the lake, with a pronounced shoulder, ending in a 400-meter wall. The beginning of the traverse route of category 5B difficulty starts from this wall. From Eskadrilya Peak, the main Bolshoy Sayan range turns west, and towards Tyhen Ardyn Peak, a spur turns northeast, dividing the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut rivers. The spur ends with a low mountain called "Katka Dura". From Dinamo Peak to Tyhen Ardyn Peak, there is a highly serrated ridge, dropping into the Moguvek gorge with rock walls of varying difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Dynamo peak, 3141 m, via the South ridge.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky in nature.
5. Height difference 150 m, length 700 m, average slope 15°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 8 pcs.
7. Team's travel time – 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Ascent Log

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov peak, 3341 m, via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 640 m, average slope 35°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 4 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Taran N. S. CMS, Afanasyev A. E. CMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan.
2. Peak — Krylya Sovetov 3341 m ridge from Muguvek pass
3. Assumed — 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route character — combined.

5. Route characteristics:

Total elevation gain — 1200 m, including ascent to Muguvek pass. Average steepness of the main part — 40°. 6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 2, chocks — 12 pieces. 7. Total travel hours — 12. 8. Overnights — none.

Ascent Report for the summit of Krylya Sovetov, approximately 2B category of difficulty, via the North Counterfort of the Western Ridge. Bolshoy Sayan Range. Ulan-Ude 2018

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Range, Mugivek gorge, section 6.1.1.
2. Summit: Krylya Sovetov peak (3341 m), via the North Counterfort of the Western Ridge.
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference (according to Google Planet): 390 m

As­cend pass­port to the peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov 3341 m, via East­ern ridge, cat. 2B.

1. East­ern Sa­yan, Bol­shoy Sa­yan ridge, Mo­gu­vek gorge, sec­tion 6.1.1.
2. As­cend to the peak Kry­lya So­ve­tov (3341 m), via East­ern ridge.
3. Pro­posed cat. 2B, first as­cend.
4. Route char­ac­ter: rocky.
5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 630 m, av­er­age steep­ness 35°.
6. Pit­ons driven: rocky and заклад­ных 14.
7. Team's walk­ing hours — 8 h.
8. No over­night stays on the route.
9. Group:

Ascent Certificate for Krylya Sovetov Peak 3341 m via Cold Peak (3280 m), along the North Counterfort, proposed for categorization

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov peak 3341 m via Cold Peak (3280 m) along the North Counterfort.
3. Proposed for categorization, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 550 m, length 1015 m, average steepness of the main part 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 20.
7. Team's travel time — 12 hours.
8. One cold bivouac on descent.
9. Group:

Climbing Passport

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Krylya Sovetov — Munku-Sardyk peak traverse via the Northern ridge.
3. Proposed for category complexity, first ascent.
4. The route is of combined nature.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 3130 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired 3 pcs.
7. Team's travel hours — 12 h.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization Active Recreation and Alpinism Club Gory Baikala MOUNTAINS ▲ of Baikal baikalmountain.com

Report on the First Ascent

To Pik Kuzmina, 2974 m, via the Central Counterfort of the South Face. Approximately 3B category of difficulty. Irkutsk, 2016

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Muguvek River gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Lastochka peak, 3100 m, via the South wall.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 350 m, length — 535 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and chock — 28 pcs.
7. Team's traveling hours — 8 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Bersenev Yu.V. 1st sports category, Antonov E.V. CMS, Gerus A.O. 3rd sports category, Nabokikh K.S. 3rd sports category.