Report on the First Ascent

Peak Arshan (2546 m) via the East Counterfort, route 4A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2. Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Shcherban A.N.
• Resnyansky I.O.
• Generalchenko D.S. Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое (Rainy) Gorge, 6.1.2.
2. Peak Arshan (2546 m), East counterfort.

Peak Baruun From the North Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan, 6.1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Summit: 2874 m. Peak Baruun from the North.
4. Proposed category: 1B category.
5. Route type: rock.

Ascent Certificate

Region — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai valley. Peak — Barun 2874. GPS coordinates: 51°56′7.07″ N, 102°10′8.32″ E. Route — via the western ridge, proposed category 2A. Route type — rocky.

Route Characteristics

Elevation gain — 500 m, length — about 900 m. Used for belay: rock pitons — 0, chocks — 0. Climbing hours: 6, days — 1.

Pik Baruun from the south Suvorkina L.D. Sayan Vostochny, 6B

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Area: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: 2874 m Pik Baruun from the south
4. Proposed: 2A cat. diff.
5. Route type: combined
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1412 m. Length of section with 3rd cat. diff.: 22 m. Length of section with 2nd cat. diff.: 200 m. Length of section with 1st cat. diff.: 1190 m. Steepness of the main part of the route 40°
7. Used on the route:

1. Class of ascent: technically challenging.
2. Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Alps, Barun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Peak: Barun via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 55°, length of sections: 0–1 — 500 m, 1–2 — 90 m, 2–3 — 120 m, 3–4 — 40 m, 4–5 — 30 m, 5–6 — 200 m, 6–7 — 200 m, 7–8 — 1500 m. Total: — 2700 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, for progression: "slings/cams" — 11.

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Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikala

Report on the First Ascent

Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the Central Bastion

Irkutsk 2017

Passport

1. Category: rock climbing
2. Region: Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai gorge
3. Peak: Baruun Vostochny, 2674 m, via the central bastion
4. Proposed category: 4B
5. Height difference: 500 m, route length: 610 m

TOWER (2800 m) via the South Ridge Route: 1B category of difficulty All-year-round

Geographical Location

The Tower peak is located in one of the southern spurs of the main ridge of the Tunka Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, situated on the eastern side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley and closing off to the north with the SOAN peak (see diagram).

Access to the Base Camp

From Irkutsk, take a bus or drive to the Arshan resort - 218 km. From Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai River valley, west along the main ridge via the Tagarhoy village by car or on foot - 12 km. Then, on foot, up the trail on the right side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley to the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers - 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The forest boundary is here. Plenty of firewood.

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent areas — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Bashnya, 2800 m, via the northern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 150 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — 0; for Aids — 0.