South Siberian Mountains
Description of the route to the summit of Urta in the Burevestnik ridge, complexity category, technical information, and details of the ascent in 2029.
Urya in Burevestnik 2029
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Burevestnik" (2929 m) in the Tunkin Mountains of the Eastern Sayan, category of difficulty 2B.
The class of ascent is rocky. Area of ascent: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Mountains ridge: Peak, its height, ascent route: "BUREVESTNIK", height 2,929 m, ridge crest. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 630 m, including 2B–3A — single slope of 40°. Number of pitons: for belay — 5, including rock pitons — 5, climbing pitons — 0, bolt pitons — 0. Number of climbing hours — 6. Number of nights and their characteristics — none. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
Team coach — Mikhailov Andrey Andreevich
Date of departure and return:
- departure — October 31, 1978
- return — October 31, 1978
Route Description: ЮВ кулуару ЮЗ гребня
Climbing report on the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, rated as 26 category of difficulty.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of General Koryakov via the SE couloir of the SW ridge, category 2B, by the team "Невозможно это не навсегда" (It's impossible not to be forever) from March 27 to March 27, 2019. 2019
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Pyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Pyotrko Pavel Vladimirovich, 1st sports rank Panova Alena Mikhailovna, CMS Abramov Grigory Alexandrovich, Badge Kiselnikov Pavel Alexandrovich, Badge Kozyreva Alena Timofeevna, Badge Desyatova Darya Nikolaevna, Badge Mashtakova Natalia Gennadievna, Badge |
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the summit Gorets Eastern via the eastern ridge, category of complexity 2B, detailed route description and technical documentation.
Ascent Card for Mt. Gorets Vostochny, 2457 m, via the East Ridge, cat. 2B
- East Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Terasa dvukh karov (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Gorets Vostochny peak, 2457 m, via the East Ridge.
- Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference 300 m, length 600 m, average slope 30°.
- Pitons driven: rock and chocks, 17 pieces.
- Team's travel time — 6 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit Gorets Zapadny via the southern ridge, category of difficulty 2A, first ascent in 2011.
Ascent Certificate for v. Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge, cat. 2A
- East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Terrace of two cirques (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Peak Gorets Zapadny, 2461 m, via the Southern Ridge.
- Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Height difference — 450 m, length — 860 m, average steepness — 30°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and chocks — 6 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 5 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: З кулуару, траверс
Traversing Gorets Zapadny and Gorets Vostochny peaks in the Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, via the western couloir, complexity category.
Ascent Certificate for Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir, traverse, category III complexity.
- Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
- Traverse of peaks Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir.
- Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
- Route type — rocky terrain.
- Height difference — 500 m, distance — 900 m, average slope — 20°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
- Team's walking hours — 7 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Team members:
Route Description: кф. ЮВ ребра
Report on the first ascent of the category 2A route to Dalnaya Peak (3063 m) via the southeastern edge spur in the Eastern Sayan.
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF MT. DAL'NYAYA 3063 m, VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE SPUR, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 2A DIFFICULTY, FROM OCTOBER 20, 2018 TO OCTOBER 20, 2018. Irkutsk 2018
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports) |
Route Description: между ромбов СВ склона
Description of the ascent route to the summit on May 9 (2578 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, complexity category 2B, length 1100 m, elevation gain 500 m.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Class — rock climbing.
- Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga valley.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Devyatoe maya, 2578 m, between the "diamonds" on the NE slope.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 500 m.
- route length — 1100 m.
- average steepness — 40°.
- Pitons hammered: rock — 4 pcs.
Route Description: С гребню, траверс
### Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge traverse overview A 4A category difficulty route crossing the VRIIG peak, May 9 peak, and Three-headed peak's Northern Tower.
TRAVERSE DESCRIPTION:
v. BRIG – peak 9 May – North Tower v. TREHGLAVAYA.
/EASTERN SAYAN/
- ANGARSK, 1970 – The peaks of the specified traverse are located in the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur, which serves as a watershed of the BUGOTOY and KYNGARGA rivers.
- Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction.
- The highest point is 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the GANGA-KHAIRY river.
- In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. For 100 km – from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west – it has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with impassable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1880 m, on the northern ones – 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peaks of the traverse BRIG – peak 9 May – TREHGLAVAYA are located on a horseshoe-shaped ridge. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk.
Route Description: с плеча ЮЗ гребня
Description of the ascent route to the Dinosaur peak in the Tunkinian Alps, difficulty category 2B, length 3550 m, elevation gain 200 m.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technically challenging.
- Ascent area: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Alps, Zuun-Khandagai gorge.
- Dinosaur Peak: shoulder of the southwest ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness: 45°, length of sections: R0–R1 — 2.5 km. R1–R2 — 500 m. R2–R3 — 90 m. R3–R4 — 450 m.