M. Menekoba

Irkutsk

Regional Alpine Federation

Protocol №–304 from 6.71 г. To first ascenders.

Description

Ascent to v. Dinosaur (Tunkin Alps). via the eastern ridge (EASTERN SAYAN)

2×M 1×M

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Passport

I. Class of ascent — rock. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Tunkinskie Goltsy, Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dinosaur, 2820 m, via the northwestern ridge with ascent along the left western counterfort. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A category. 5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 450 m; average steepness — 38°; length of sections: 2 — 400 m, 3 — 220 m, 4 — 270 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ROCK.
2. Ascent area — EASTERN SAYAN, TUNKINSKIE GOLTSY ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. DINOSAUR, 2716 m, SOUTH BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN RIDGE.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Height difference — 416 m.
6. Average steepness of the buttress — 55°.
7. Length of sections — 4th diff. cat. – 28 m, 5th diff. cat. – 150 m.
8. Pitons driven — rock: 42, ice: for ITO.
9. Number of travel hours — 11 h.

Climbing Area Map

Geographic Location, Climate, and Sporting Characteristics of the Area

Administratively, the area belongs to the Buryat ASSR. The Diplomnnik peak closes the northwestern cirque of the Tunka River valley and is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinsky Goltsy range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The relief of the area is alpine, rugged, with peaks characterized by numerous destroyed counterforts, bizarre granite "towers," and "knives" having a monolithic block structure. The absolute heights of the peaks are around 3000 m, with Diplomnnik peak being 2896 m. The snow cover begins to form in August and September on the leeward slopes, reaching a depth of 2 m, and almost completely melts only by the end of May or June. Weather characteristics:

• During the establishment of winter conditions (in October and November), the weather is unstable, with snowstorms and frequent, sharp cold snaps (sometimes up to 35°).
• Winter weather conditions are stable and sunny.
• The sharply continental climate causes significant temperature fluctuations: at night, temperatures average -30°C, sometimes dropping to -45°C, while during the day, they average -20°C to -25°C, sometimes dropping to -40°C.
• In mountain cirques, it is 5–10 degrees warmer.

3

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy Ridge, Kharimta gorge, section 6.1.
2. Doktor Peak, 2627 m, via the North Ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference 400 m, length 800 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 6 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.