Protocol

of the ascent to v. Shkhelda Central via the North wall (Subortovich route, qualifying), made on June 22, 1980 under the guidance of Radoshkevich E.A. Attendees:

• Head of the training department a/l "Elbrus" — MS Shaposhnikov B.M.
• Head of the rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
• Commander of the 1st detachment of athletes — MS SIVTSOV V.G.
• Radoshkevich E.A. — leader
• Turkevich M.M. — participant
• Feldman G.L. — participant

To the Russian Championship in mountaineering in the technical class

Report

on the ascent of the FAiS team from Moscow to v. Shkhelda Central 4295 m via the right edge of the N-wall (5B cat. diff.) Captain: Nilov S.A. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. V. Martynov's 2nd route 5B, 1955 (the route taken by the team);

Route Profile

Photopanorama of the area

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing season — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Shkhelda Centralnaya 4295 m via the right edge of the northern wall.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 1265 m. Length — 1635 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 644 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-------: | | 43 | 40 | - | 52 |

From the “Spartak” camp, the path goes along the forest trail of the “Pzheldy” gorge, then along the Dengi-Bashi slope and reaches the moraine (left orographically) of the Shkheldy glacier. At the beginning, the path goes along the moraine, over large stones. Having passed about 500 meters on them, we exit to the moraine, passing through several “pockets” formed by the moraine and the Dengi-Bashi slopes, and reach the “Aristov” campsite (the last pocket with good grounds). From the “Aristov” campsite, the path turns to the right along the moraine, which looks like a large railway embankment. On the Ak-Su glacier, we exit to the lateral moraine as high as possible. Here, on a green clearing, is the campsite. The journey takes 5–6 hours. When descending from the moraine, there are small snow patches. The path further lies along the Ak-Su glacier. Depending on the condition of the glacier, the crevices are bypassed on the right, closer to the hanging glacier above the campsite. The path goes through the middle of the glacier. The Ak-Su glacier represents three tiers. We approach a steep snowfield leading to the Sredniy pass, located between the Fizkulturnik dyad (east) and Malaya Shkhelda (west). The path from the Ak-Su cirque to the Sredniy pass goes:

• along a steep firn slope
• along the direction of the rocky ridge descending from Malaya Shkhelda to the Ak-Su cirque.

259

Winter Russian Cup, 258a, 1994

56 m REPORT on the ascent of the team (alpine club "Gornjak") to Shkhelda peak, III-a West, via the left part of the North face (4229 m) — First Ascent Team leader: Botov D.A. 2. Golubtsov S.G. 3. Reminyuk A.A. 4. Shevchenko V.V. Team coach: Odintsov A.N. 7–10/2–94

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. III West Shkhelda, 4229 m, via the North wall and traverse of Central and Eastern Shkhelda peaks (4320 m)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: — wall section height difference: 1130 m — average steepness of the wall section: 48° — route length: 3190 m — wall section length: 1560 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. III western Shkhelda (4229 m) via the north face of the northwest ridge (Kensitsky variation)
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1129 m, height difference of the route's wall section — 320 m, route length — 1630 m, length of the route's wall section — 340 m,

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
• bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17