USSR - MPS Central Council of VDOC "Lokomotiv"

Description

Traverse made by the team of CC VDOC "Lokomotiv", Shkhelda-Ushba with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda-Tau

Konkov I.P. + 5 people Description of the Shkhelda-Ushba traverse with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda (by "Rybka"), carried out from August 8 to August 22, 1965.

August 8

10:30. The team of CC VDOC "Lokomotiv" consisting of five members of the assault group and two observers left the camp to make the Shkhelda-Ushba traverse with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda. 14:00. Bivouac was set up at "Aristov's overnight stay". 18:00. Trial radio communication with the camp and the observation group was conducted.

August 9 - 1st day of ascent up the wall

Ascent

TO THE 3RD WESTERN SHKHELDA-TAU

Via the Northern Wall

The group consisted of:

• Koptev V. - leader
• Minin Yu. - participant
• Aleksashin L. - participant
• Bozhukov V. - participant MOSCOW 1960

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Object

1. Ascent class: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adylsu gorge
3. Shkhelda 3rd Western peak via the counterfort of the North wall
4. Category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 903 m, length 1152 m, average slope 56°
6. Pitons driven:

90. Peak Aristova via North-West Ridge (V. Abalakov's Route, Cat. 5A) From Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people), ascend via the trail on the right slope of Shkhelda gorge. Beyond the forest, move along the trail on grassy slopes, then on large talus to the moraine of Shkhelda glacier. Follow the right moraine of the glacier to the confluence with Aksu glacier. From here, turn left and follow the median moraine towards the North Walls of Peak Aristova. From the moraine, move across the glacier towards the rightmost rocky ridge branching off from the North-West Ridge of Peak Aristova - the first rocky belt of the peak - and ascend via the avalanche debris, then along the snowy slope-couloir to the right ridge of the belt. Ascend simple rocks of the ridge to the platforms above overhanging rocks. Camp on the

89. Peak Aristova via the South Couloir and West Ridge (O. Aristova's route, category 4A). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) via the Shkheldinsky and Aksu glaciers through Peak Fizkulturnik is described in route 80, and through Biwacny pass - in route 87. The initial bivouac is on the South Shkhelda plateau. Traverse the snowy plateau of the South Shkhelda glacier along the southern walls of the Shkhelda massif and, after passing a wide snowy couloir with ice falls, turn left and ascend a narrow, long couloir to the "ram's foreheads" on the southern slope of the massif. The "ram's foreheads" are located between two wide snowy couloirs descending from the southern slopes of the Shkhelda massif onto the South Shkhelda glacier plateau. Bivouac on the площадки. From "Aristova's overnight stay" 11–13 hours. From the "ram's foreheads," traverse right to ascend, crossing a snowy couloir, to a rocky outcrop in the center of a wide snowy couloir. From the outcrop, ascend via the right couloir to a snowy saddle under the rocky walls. From the saddle, traverse the snowy slope left to a depression under the rocky walls. Then, up and left along the ice-snow slope of the couloir. Having passed two snowy "neckties," ascend via the right side of the steep snowy couloir to the saddle of the West ridge of Peak Aristova, between peaks Nauka and Aristova (snowy slopes of the couloir are avalanche-prone!). From the "ram's foreheads" 6–9 hours. Here, in a snowy depression, leave your backpacks and ascend Peak Aristova via a simple, wide snowy ridge. From the point of reaching the ridge, 1 hour. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 5 days.

Climbing Passport

I. Winter category. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Shkhelda 2nd Western peak (4310) via the black stream on the South-Southwest wall through the cornices. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 550 m (350 m of wall and 200 m of roof); length - 985 m (450 m of wall), 5-6 category of difficulty - 350 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 90 m; 6th - 259 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 73°. 6. Pitons driven: rock, nuts, bolt hangers, skyhooks

Report

On the Third Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Khelda (2nd Zapadnaya) via the South-West Wall (V. Kuznetsov's Route)

Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" 1978

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda

Report

on the ascent to the summit of SHKELDA Second Western, 4310 m, via the southern wall, accomplished by the team from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society:

• AKHTYRSKII O.A. — CMS USSR "Burevestnik" — team captain
• KOVALENKO Yu.I. — CMS USSR -"-
• KOVALEVSKII V.A. — CMS USSR -"-
• SALTYKOV V.M. — CMS USSR -"-
• SHKLYAEV E.V. — CMS USSR -"-

256

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda-Tau II Western, 4310 m via the center of the southern wall, made by the team of alpinist camp "Shkhelda" of the sports society "Spartak" consisting of:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of technical (winter) ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge.
3. Shkhelda Second Western (4310 m), via the northern wall "The Night Before Christmas".
4. Proposed category: 5B difficulty level, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m (by altimeter), length — 2400 m. Length of 5th category difficulty sections — 800 m. Length of 6th category difficulty sections — 50 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°, main part — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 12, friends — 15, ice screws — 65. Left on the route: rock pitons — 2.
7. Team's travel hours: 23 hours and 2.5 days.
8. Overnights: 1st in a tent on a snowy ridge, 2nd in a tent under a rock outcropping, sitting.