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Route Description: левой части В стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the 5B category route on the left part of the eastern wall in 1980.
Introduction
Peak Volnaya Ispaniya is located in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks Bzhedukh and Ullu-Kara, and is very popular among both Soviet and foreign mountaineers. The most interesting and challenging routes, climbed in the right part of the eastern wall (Subbotovich, Myshlyaev), have repeatedly received awards and have rightfully earned recognition as classics.
The first ascent of the left part of the eastern wall was made in 1978 by a team from the Bauman Moscow State Technical University and received an award. Since the route was only classified at the end of 1979, it did not gain much popularity and was repeated only in June 1980, although its technical difficulty and logic (it follows a nearly direct line) are no less than those of previously climbed routes on this wall.
TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE
Protocol No. 20
Ascent
Debriefing of the group of instructors from the "Shkhielda" alpine camp led by Parshin V.S. on peak Volnaya Ispaniya via route 5B cat. sl. (Kolomyttsev's route on the left part of the eastern wall) on June 16, 1980. Attendees:
- Release supervisor Shepalova G.N.
- Head of the rescue camp Barulin B.
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of Phelda Central peak via the North wall along the Subortovich route, made in 1980 by a group of climbers led by Radoshkevich E.A.
Protocol
of the ascent to v. Shkhelda Central via the North wall (Subortovich route, qualifying), made on June 22, 1980 under the guidance of Radoshkevich E.A. Attendees:
- Head of the training department a/l "Elbrus" — MS Shaposhnikov B.M.
- Head of the rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
- Commander of the 1st detachment of athletes — MS SIVTSOV V.G.
- Radoshkevich E.A. — leader
- Turkevich M.M. — participant
- Feldman G.L. — participant
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateFirst ascent of an unnamed peak (5231 m) via Western Ridge in the Vanch Range, Pamir Mountains; a 5A (Russian grading system) route.
Vanch Range
UNNAMED PEAK 5231 m (previously 5211)! (FIRST ASCENT) VIA WEST RIDGE ROUTE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 5A DIFFICULTY
Team Composition
| Name | Sport Rank | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Vavilov A.I. | 1st sport rank | — team leader |
| Zhelandovskiy L.E. | 1st sport rank | — participant |
| Mironychev M.S. | 1st sport rank | — " — |
| Shabrukov V.I. | 1st sport rank | — " — |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Odessa via the center of the northwestern wall, category 6B complexity route.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Odessa (4810 m) via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B complexity, by a combined team from Tomsk-Leningrad and Kemerovo regions from 29.07.2018 to 04.08.2018 g.
I. Ascent Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Team Leader | Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, MS |
| 1.2 | Participants | Aldyn-Kherel Timur Valerievich, 1st sports category; Kashevnok Anton Aleksandrovich, CMS; Suzdaltsev Egor Evgenievich, CMS |
| 1.3 | Coach's Full Name | Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich |
Route Description: Ю стене 3 кф.
SSummitMateA route sheet for climbing a mountain, containing the group's plan, equipment provision, communication schedule, and other important details for a safe ascent.
- Group equipment: a) standard, additional, special equipment: | main rope | - | auxiliary rope | - | | -------------------- | - | ----------------------------- | - | | carabiners | - | ice axes | - | | ice screws | - | rock hammers | - | | ice hammers | - | rock pitons | - | | ice pitons | - | crampons | - | | harness | - | protection gear | - | | rappel slings | - | piton hammers | - | | sling-extenders | - | quickdraws | - |